D2 HD213 HEAD REMOVAL

Discovered some seepage from the head gasket on driver side near front of motor. What is the best way to remove the head? Nuts have been removed & put penetrating oil around studs for several days. Head won't budge. Put a few nuts back on part way and cranked motor. Head still won't budge.
Thanks,
-Snowman.

Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer and tap on it with a little force. It is possible that if the gasket was ever coated with copper seal that it is stuck. I would just make darn sure you have everything remove that could be holding it. I know that I am stating the obvious.

Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer and tap on it with a little force. It is possible that if the gasket was ever coated with copper seal that it is stuck. I would just make darn sure you have everything remove that could be holding it. I know that I am stating the obvious.

Depending on if/when it was last removed, shellac was used on the head gaskets as well, so it can easily take several hard blows with a dead blow hammer to knock that baby loose

I went thru this very recently. If exhaust has leaked around the studs leaving carbon deposits around the studs base. It can be extremely difficult. I purchased a snap on head stud remover and it helped a lot. I still ended up having to drill down three broken head studs. Then take a dead blow hammer and crack it loose. I have heard of old timers loosening head nuts several turns and then firing the engine threw a heat cycle and basically blowing the head loose/off.

I also have a post here some where about replacement head studs. Where are you located? The snap on tool is fairly expensive

Located in northeast Ohio. We have a craftsman stud tool that we can try. Have been using the dead blow hammer with no results. Letting it soak a few more days and then will apply some heat to see if we have any progress. If none, will start removing studs.
Thanks for the support/suggestions,
-Snowman.

Heat is pretty much a waste of time in this situation. The heat wont travel far enough down the stud to get to the threads. The head acts to well as a heat soak before it can get there. I'm not familiar with the craftsman tool. The snap on is a split collet type that grips the threads. You really need to be able to crack the head stud loose and not slow torque twist it. I had less breakage. Then for most of the broken ones I have a blackhawk knurled slip on broken stud remover. That I use after the head is off. Your biggest problem is going to be the studs into the water ports and the ones next to the exhaust. The carbon build up around those studs were horrendous. At least in my case, it was not the gasket that was hung up. It is the studs. I even hung my motor off my hoist by just the head for days tapping/soaking/heating. Hoping the weight and time would make it let go. In the end it was just sheer will that I would win. My rebuild is finally complete but still on my run stand. Hoping to re-install soon. I have several videos on the Y-tube under 1936 international flathead, and I have a couple of new ones coming on a complete starter rebuild. But I don't think I put anything on disassembly of the head. Good Luck

Those collet type stud setters are worth their price if you have more than a few of the same size stud to deal with.

All right snowman. I have waited here patiently by the fire side with a beer in hand for you to conjure up an outcome. Any updates/luck with the head removal?

The heads for the C69a Ford Flathead V8 in my car were stuck. I ran the engine with the nuts removed, the heads didn't move. My final fix was to use a hole saw that fit the studs and drill clearance around each stud. The heads still needed blunt force encouragment . The holesaw will not destroy the head.
I used a knurled cam style for stud removal. Because of the many non standard accessories that went on to the engine, l made the 48 custom length replacement studs in stainless steel. The studs are 7/16" with coarse thread for the block and fine thread for the nuts. I machined 48 custom diameter stainless flat washers with reamed to 7/16" holes. The stud threads were single point turned on my lathe.
Mark the hole saw for depth reference.
Pictures later. I am not at my computer. The stud and washer machining took 12 hours.

A few pictures. Because of the number of studs and the various length, I made a stud map for installation reference.