ACME Beer Truck

I also prefer modern (ized ) running gear. MAGIHC and I were talking about my 10 hour return trip to MERRIT, BC in a 2002 Dodge Cummins versus doing the same trip in a restored R120. In the not so good

old daze

this would have been very close to a three day adventure. I did the COQUAHALA #5 highway with the R120 when it had a 6,9 Diesel engine and that engine struggled. I nearly cancelled my trip when the overdrive quit at MERRITT. The truck became uncomfortable at the 110 kmh posted speed. A quick stop in MERRITT and a bearded man found a loose wire, connected it, the Gear Vendors worked again and the trip continued at 120+kmh. Somehow, it seems somehow appropriate that my R120 has gone to MAGIHC MIKE for its final days. I think the R120 pulled a little that way every time I passed by.

I love your stories! So romantic!

Yet another shade of blue. My advice to anyone messing around with wood is to get a coat of paint or urethane or whatever on it as soon as it gets to your shop. Even though Central CA is a very dry place somehow water stains get on any wood I take home. I always learn the hard way...
I'm going to weld in a light piece of angle iron (shown) crossways into the flatbed so the seam between sheets of plywood isn't so noticeable. That way the plywood won't droop.
BTW, the light angle iron is yet another salvaged piece from the wooden flatbed I got the front "loops" from. Like I said, nothing goes to waste here.
Tomorrow morning a quick trip to Westside Dismantlers in Visalia, CA to check out an old IHC. I will take pictures.
Then, final bolting in of the donated flatbed support tubes to the Tacoma pickup bed to frame holes.
The angle iron of the flatbed will "float" on top of the tubes until final cab position is known. Then I'll use use either countersunk head screws or grade 8 bolts to secure the flatbed to the tubes.
I welded two extra supports to the area of the frame right behind the cab. How I will bolt the flatbed to these remains to be seen but I'll figure it out.
I can't install the plywood floor until the flatbed is securely bolted to the Tacoma frame.
I will probably uses self-tappers to secure the plywood to the angle iron frame and then cut off the self-tapping ends.
Once I can go no further on the flatbed I will work some more on the D-2 front end and slowly get it as far back as it will go.
The D-2 hood will act as the perfect spacer to know where to bolt cab down.

D-2 radiator inlet and outlet are VERY close to Tacoma engine, still haven't centered front wheels in wheel wells. Plasma cutting will begin shortly.
Oh well.
Also, rear of front fenders are waaay too high.
Two flatbed support tubes are securely bolted to Tacoma frame. The third will be bolted in once cab is located.
Light angle is welded inside flatbed frame to support edges of plywood.

After much thought, hair-pulling, soul-searching...
I'm going to move engine back. This is why:
1) There is 10" between back of head and firewall indent. Looks funny. I need to close this gap.
2) A/C compressor pulley is too close to radiator/rad support. I still haven't centered wheels. No way A/C compressor will stay where it's at if I decide to leave engine alone. I want A/C!
3) I want "stock" access to front pulleys, belts, water pump, etc. Gotta move engine back.
4) I enjoy the increase in performance you get with a engine set-back. Better weight distribution.
5) I fully expected to move engine back. I always do on these Japanese hybrids. I'm OK with the extra work.
6) Radiator will need different outlets I think. If I don't move engine it will need different outlets AND relocation of outlets or a different radiator? If I haven't said it recently old IHC radiators are awesome! They are so long lasting.
I will have the radiator shop check, clean and install pressure-cap neck.
Here we go!

I'm clearing a path to the hoist so I can lift the cab back off this D-2 /Tacoma hybrid.
I will set the engine as far back as I can without buying new parts. That's where I draw the line.
Here's a shot without the front end on showing the hacked frame horns (necessary to get the D-2 front end on where it belongs). Also showing that the darned A/C compressor is out front. First to contact the radiator.
Also, a picture of the Rotary Hoist. Makes lifting the cab off SO much easier! I used a come along and a strap the first time. I'm getting serious now!

I began getting the "wasted day" feeling--not good.
So I carefully cut off the first plywood piece to fit the recess in the flatbed. This progress makes me feel less wasteful.
Self-tappers will "suck it in".
I have to cut a few reliefs underneath so the plywood will lay flat.

Made a wrecking yard trip to Westside Auto Dismantlers this morning to look at and get parts off a pretty good C1100 pickup. I tried to purchase the truck as it is yesterday but couldn't get together on price with the yard manager.
So today I bought the three remaning stock 15" wheels (I have a fourth somewhere), one front brake drum/hub assy, driver's door panel, all the door handles inside and out, radiator, fan, shroud and the floor shifter panel with boot.
I'll go back and buy the rest of it on "half price days" in a few weeks.
I'm posting this here because the wheels (and tires for now) will go right on my beer truck, I think. Add some K series hubcaps and the look I was hoping for on the truck is progressing.

Three IHC wheels with "roller" tires for the beer truck. Came off a clean 60s C1100 pickup. I have a fourth out in the back forty somewhere.
THAT'S why I used Tacoma! Same bolt pattern! NOW I remember!
D-2 hubcaps are hard to come by..K series hubcaps for now.

It's supposed to be way above 100F this week. Topping out at 110F. I work in the heat everyday, doesn't bother me too much except when the breeze stops and sweat just rolls off.
I think the three day holiday weekend is supposed to be a balmy 104F or so.
My plan is to get the beer truck on the Rotary Lift and lift the cab off.
Once the cab is out of the way, I'm going to move the engine back in the most expedient manner I can.
I'm going to cut and slide the trans and diff center support crossmembers back, shorten TWO driveshafts, cut 4" or so out of the exhaust and make plates to slide the engine back while keeping the left motor mount where it is. Rack and pinion is in the way, darn it!