D-2 Rear Crank Cap Install


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Yard Art
Yard Art

Posts: 67

Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:01 pm

Location: Everett Washington ( Washington State )

Post Sat Nov 22, 2014 9:12 pm

D-2 Rear Crank Cap Install

Ok. I am about to install the rear cap back on to my 1937 D-2 IHC with a 213 cubic inch engine. I bought a new gasket set from Olson's Gaskets and it comes with the old rope packing. I want to avoid any major oil leaks from the rear.

As seen in the pic, the rear of the crank has an oil slinger with grooves behind it. The large slot on the cap fits over this part, so no packing is needed there. I just figured this out with the help of Mike Miller. Thanks Mike.

However, what steps I should follow to install the rear cap to ensure it goes on as tight as possible without having to worry about oil leaks once installed? The cap is machined to fit tightly against the block, but thought I'd ask to see if there are any tricks or tips.

What steps should I take with the rope packing to ensure it is tightly packed? Should I soak the packing in some sort of solution or pack it dry? Mike provided some useful advice, any other advice would be appreciated.

Should I use some type of gasket adhesive or sealant when re-installing the cap?

I am including some pics of the rear crank cap for you to see what I am talking about with pointing arrows.

Your help would be truly appreciated.

P.S. The surface rust you see in the pic was nothing serious. It did not affect the part in any way.

Thanks. George.
Attachments
Rear Cap Installed 800.jpg
This is the rear cap installed for demonstration purposes only with the packing removed.
Rear Cap Top Shot 800.jpg
This is a top view of the cap after removal.
Rear Cap Side View 800.jpg
This is a side view of the cap with the groove for rope packing indicated.
Rear Cap Inside Shot 800 2.jpg
This is another shot of the rear cap showing the groove and other parts of the cap. There was nothing in the groove when it was removed from the engine.
Rear Cap Inside Shot 800.jpg
This is the inside of the cap which faces the crankshaft. Crank bearing installed.
Last edited by 1937IHCModelD-2 on Tue Nov 25, 2014 5:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 528

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2012 6:22 pm

Location: Grand Junction, Colorado

Post Sun Nov 23, 2014 9:12 pm

Re: D-2 Rear Crank Cap Install

I was hoping someone with knowledge on your engine would reply. Since no one did, Look at the crankshaft right behind the rear main journal, is there a flange or tin oil slinger there or does the crankshaft have spiral grooves in its surface? If so it would confirm my thoughts that it does not use a rope packing around the crankshaft instead it uses the slinger or spirals to throw the oil into the groove to drain.. I say that as the groove is immediately after the rear bearing insert. Usually with a rope packing there is a space between the bearing insert and the seal groove. You push it into the groove and pack it in tightly pusing the side of a round tool such as a smooth ratchet handle, once tight you trim the excess off with a razor blade or knife, same on the block side. It's been too long since I installed rope side seals, I don't remember any tricks. Hopefully someone with knowledge will be by. MM

Rookie
Rookie

Posts: 12

Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 7:58 am

Location: Nashville, TN

Post Tue Nov 25, 2014 8:23 pm

Re: D-2 Rear Crank Cap Install

So I just rebuilt my 213hd 3 months ago and she is installed and running. It is cool to see someone else in the same boat I was and wanting to get it right the first time:). You and mike are right about the slinger on the crank as well as the large slot that the slinger goes in once installed. You do not put any packing in there and you need to double check that the hole that drains the oil is very clear. Just install the cap and then you can pack the holes. I soaked my rope in reg engine oil for a couple of min. Then started working it down into the holes on each side. I used a brass rod that had a small amount of play to pack with. I also used a hammer with light blows to help pack. This did a great job as it helped squeeze out the extra oil in the rope. I let the packing protrude about a 1/16" to help create a better seal when installing the oil pan and gasket. No gasket maker or sealant was used...I know it just seems a little strange but so far I have not had a leak. Remember these trucks will leak a small amount of oil no matter what you do because of how they were designed. Best of luck and if you run into any more questions about your 213 just let me know. I don't know everything but it is fresh on my mind.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 108

Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2012 2:30 pm

Location: Tacoma, WA

Post Tue Nov 25, 2014 9:15 pm

Re: D-2 Rear Crank Cap Install

Years ago I bought some NOS packing from Parts of the Past (correct number for the HD 213). I thought it would be something special but it was just an IHC envelope filled with a hank of loose stranded material - maybe something like coarse linen fibers. I used one of those Chinese finger installers to pull the material through the packing hole in the top cap. Then jammed it in tight. The engine still leaked some through the weep hole at the bottom of the clutch shield. Never did rebuild the engine because it had a messy old weld repair for a cracked block.

Where did you obtain the new bearings?

Yard Art
Yard Art

Posts: 67

Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:01 pm

Location: Everett Washington ( Washington State )

Post Tue Dec 09, 2014 9:02 pm

Re: D-2 Rear Crank Cap Install

Thank you very much for the precise and accurate information guys. So far, all is going well. In my case, when I installed the packing I slathered the packing material with gasket sealer and I used an old push rod from an old engine to help push and press the packing material into the holes. The push rod fit perfectly into the holes. I used a small hammer and hammered gently yet firmly until it was packed firmly. Glad to hear the engine is up and running. What a great sound these old Internationals have. Can't wait to get mine running again.

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