Frame help


Forum designed for the D series and older

Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

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Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2014 11:57 pm

Post Wed Sep 17, 2014 10:10 pm

Frame help

I have a 39 D2, I'm wanting to drop a mild V8 and auto tranny in it to get it running. The frame is in good shape, no rust holes, no bends except the front horns, would this frame hold up? Is anyone running a similar combo on the stock frame?

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 108

Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 4:50 pm

Location: Huntingtown, Maryland

Post Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:08 am

Re: Frame help

I too have a 39 D2, that I installed a SBC twenty years ago... here are some things to consider...

1 - weight... the SBC doesn't weight as much as the HD213... so handling, steering isn't affected...
2 - clearance... prior to selecting the SBC over Ford's, Mopars, and others, the overall size of the SBC seemed to be the best option..
I didn't want to cut the firewall, frame, or modify the inner fender wells.... my only limitation is the clearance of spark plug/cylinder #7 and the stock steering box... is a bit tight.... used ram horns for exhaust manifolds, and the exhaust routes directly down, then turns 90 degrees in order to clear steering (tie rod)....
3 - hardware... using engine mounts dedicated for early model (47-50) Chevy truck frame.... got it from Chassis Engineering.... same is true for the transmission tail shaft mount.... had to weld plates to box the frame, and then bolted these mounts to those boxed plates...
4 - decided that I wanted to retain the flavor of the vehicle by keeping a standard transmission... also chose a Chevy 4spd... had clearance issues between the brake pedal and the bell housing.... retained the original floor mounted pedal assemblies... resolved clearance issues by making a new brake pedal/pedal arm.... had to flip the bell cranks that operate clutch and master cylinder.... new master cylinder is located under the driver's side floorboard.... caused the battery to be relocated, in my case into the pickup box....
5 - the stock rear end won't handle the increased power put forth by the SBC... so recommend changing into modern... Ford 8.8 w/disc's was my choice.... initially I kept the entire driveline as GM, but that was a mistake... recently converted to Explorer 8.8 w/disc's...
6 - brakes.... also due to increased power, suggest converting to disc front brakes.... Wildman Bill has developed a conversion for K's that will work with the D's (F-10 axle) with some modifications.... the mods are to the caliper mounting bracket, has to be lengthened, and the hat offset will be greater...

Hope this helps
PMH

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Post Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:16 pm

Re: Frame help

Wow, yeah that's exactly what I wanted to know! I had not taken into account the weight of the engine, I really thought the new motor would be heavier. Mine is missing the rearend anyway so that works out great. I am curios though, did you keep the stock ride height or did you lower yours? I would like to lower mine a few inches all the way around and I was not sure how to do that with the stock front axle. I am torn on trannys, I originally was going to do a 4 speed and keep the original pedals, but the longer I thought about it I talked myself into a C4. I have not found either tranny yet though so depending on price it could still go either way! Thanks again for the great info, I feel a lot better about the stock frame now.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 108

Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 4:50 pm

Location: Huntingtown, Maryland

Post Fri Sep 19, 2014 7:00 am

Re: Frame help

My ride height was altered a bit due to sagging front springs caused by nothing other than age... that problem was solved by having a suspension shop add a leaf, which firmed up the front end, raising the ride height by approx 1.5", thereby restoring it to original height... I got a lot of grief on this site by adding a leaf... some consider that fix a "band-aid"... but then they didn't have a clue what the real issue was..... and it's my truck... not theirs.... also the ride height adjustment was compounded by clearance issues between the stock front axle and the motor mount crossbar (from chassis engineering)....

By the way, the FA-10 front axle, stock on the 1/2 ton D's, is a very stout axle... was commonly adapted onto dirt racers, drag racers, and other straight front axle applications due to it's strength... and it's pretty ornate... removing/replacing it was out of the question for me since, in my opinion, it was a major character element of the truck.... only issue is trying to find kingpin's and bushings..... they can be found, but are rare and costly....

PMH

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Location: Canada's left Coast

Post Fri Sep 19, 2014 9:43 am

Re: Frame help

I don't know what is the big deal with king pins. Someone had to make the originals and surely a machine shop can turn our another set at a reasonable price. I had a set made for an '"R120 and the machine shop installed them in the axle. This was before I had a lathe and could make my own stuff.
Add a leaf is common and likely something IH might have done. if asked. when the truck was ordered.
This forum is better than many of the others, in that there are fewer members on here who will attack another members build. There is always a risk, for a person posting a build, that someone will not agree. I have reduced my stress by using the "friends and foes" section of the forum. Add a person to the "foe list" and you will not be insulted by their opinions, unless you decide to open the blocked post.
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Post Fri Sep 19, 2014 3:36 pm

Re: Frame help

OY,not this axle :t10512: again!?

I have doubts the FA-10 front axle to be the D series "stock" axle,the "FA" identifier prefix wasn't in use until the late 50's.

The facts are...

This is from the K-series service manual.
Image

The index of the MT-52D states...
The K-1 & 2 (except with 9.00x13 tires) used the F-50 and the F-150 with 9.00x13 tires.
The K-3 used the F-150 (except with 10.50x16 tires) and the F-261 (F-260 variant) with 10.50x16 tires.

The F-50 king pins are the ones nobody makes kits for and there are actually 2 variants depending on chassis number. The earlier used wedge pins to secure the k-pin in the I-beam,the later one uses draw key's.
The F-50 was no longer used beyond the K/KB series,the L-100,120,R-R-100,110,120,130 all used the F-150(?) with draw keys.

The F-150 also had 2 variants with the same difference as above (in K/KB's). The king pin kit for the earlier variant also seems to be NLA too,I never found a good pn for it. :(
The later kit may be usable with a little machining though(?). They use the same bushings and bearings,the only thing difference I find is the lock pin vs. draw key and the pin itself (Likely due to groove size in k-pin?it's location? plus the lock pin draw/key size?).

Basically the F-150 "evolved" into the F-165/FA-1 & F-170/FA-10. The F-150 with draw key's uses the same king pin set.

The difference between the F-165/FA-1 & F-170/FA-10 is the I-beam (capacity rating) though both use the same king pin set.The knuckle is also the same from the L's up to at least the B-series. Later models list a different knuckle pn but that could be due to a supplier change(?). Unable to check the K/KB knuckles either without the IH superseded pn book.
The FA-10 is listed as being in the MT-103 S-series and was discontinued after 1968,the FA-1 was used up to '73. Just so ya know,disc brakes were not available before '74 and the last of the light trucks didn't use straight axles (used IFS) except the 500 which used the 5K FA-28 with drum brakes. A shame the FA-1 wasn't used and could be had with disc brakes,it could've solved a problem.

Here's the pn's from my file for FA-1/FA-10 king pin kits;
R-100,110,120,130 (+L-110,120)
62905R93 Kit,king pin (standard) Pin size 5.439 L x .861 Dia.
891098R91 Supersedes 62905R93 (FA-1 / FA-10)
530-1043 Raybestos Chassis
8390B Federal Mogul / Moog
R200005 Meritor
KB-473B Elgin
NCP 2621367 NAPA


Hope this clarifies a few thing's. Image
12 yrs.exp. in IH dealer parts dept.
Never argue with a fool...
If you don't have anything nice to say...say nothing.
If you don't learn something new everyday...you weren't paying attention.
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Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 108

Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 4:50 pm

Location: Huntingtown, Maryland

Post Fri Sep 19, 2014 5:13 pm

Re: Frame help

Scotts right... F-10 front axle - not FA-10... my mistake... that's what happens when you go from memory....

kingpin or steering knuckle kit info from IHC unavailable, however individual p/n's as taken from MT-38 page 107-108

IHC kingpin p/n 1051Y (dia .749) as measured
IHC bushes p/n 1044Y (dia .751) as measured
IHC locking pin p/n 1052Y
IHC thrust washer p/n/ 13343VA

Kingpin kit - Rare Parts p/n RP30138
- kit includes kingpins, bushes, lock pins, kingpin dust covers, thrust washer, shims, etc....

PMH

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Pile of Parts

Posts: 33

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Post Thu Sep 25, 2014 10:29 pm

Re: Frame help

Great info guys, way more than I expected to get! My front end has numbers on it, would that help to identify what axle I have or is it based more odd the manufacture date? I apologize for the questions, I'm new to IH, got about all the Ford info you could ever want, still learning way around! Thanks again for all the info!
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 2048

Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:49 pm

Post Fri Sep 26, 2014 5:07 pm

Re: Frame help

With the pn's Paul? posted they're the same as listed for the K series F-50 axle. So if his info from the MT-38 is for your model,no other info should be needed or be much more helpful.

I did find another source for standard size king pins though.
84662HA IH kit pn
http://www.oldinternationaltrucks.ca/products/?CatID=92
Open 1941-49 International - K(B)1 - K(B)5 on left for listing.
Prices are Canadian dollars.
12 yrs.exp. in IH dealer parts dept.
Never argue with a fool...
If you don't have anything nice to say...say nothing.
If you don't learn something new everyday...you weren't paying attention.
THINK! Be sure brain is connected before mouth is in gear.

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