OldIHC

Has anyone here ever tried hot riveting when replacing chassis parts? Looking to beg, buy, rent, borrow or steal (well maybe not steal) a hot rivet hammer reasonably. Key word is reasonably. I have found them available for sale on the net but they are quite pricey. Also any advice on installation.

Interesting Question, Not that I remember has anyone mentioned it, but, I am getting a bit more forgetful as I go along. I think most have just relied on Bolts. It will be interesting to see if someone has.

https://youtu.be/ze3nV5pYB8E
There is enough information in the video for a person to make contact and get information .
I have an Ingersoll Rand Air hammer similar to the one in the video. The interchangeable tool bits for this hammer are available. I have the bits and I don't remember where I got them.
I have used my Ingersoll to reset loose rivets after heating the rivets with an oxygen and aceteline torch. I suppose a person could heat an old rivet in place with a TIG welder before resetting it.
I prefer to replace loose rivets with grade 8 bolts. For a better job the holes should be reamed to size. The thread on a fastener should not be in the reamed hole .
An interested person could contact The Orbitform Group. Google it.

I love the "factory" look, at times. Yes, a hot rivet would be great!
There are bolts that look like rivets for just this reason. I'll go look.
Nikki is right, most of my stuff ends up with grade fasteners and locknuts. Usually stovers.

I get it. Everything in my shop gets grade 8 nuts, bolts, flats and locks.

I/we use Stover nuts for the final installation. I buy plain nuts at Fastenal for the fit-up. Torque values can be found on the internet. I like to tighten to about 80% - 90% of the max rate. I think it is important to use grade 8 washers where the fastener would go against the frame.