OldIHC

I'm waiting for "D-52" caliper brackets for the Interbaker. It's holding up the hoist...can't work on the Madge...So I've decided to move ahead with this interesting truck. Once owned by the huge (local) agricultural firm Giannini Corp. ( we think), I've decoded the vin to find a 1963 one ton built in Oakland CA with the usual rust in the cab corners and doors. Oh well!
The yellow and white are signature Giannini colors. We will see if it was.
Yellow is a polarizing color, politically. i like this shade. Hence "Sunrise Towing Service".
I am the worst poker player on the planet, always drawing to an "inside hand" . Goes along with my "self-exciter" alternator comment.
I acquired the 1963 era tow bed seen below probably 15-20 years ago. This bed would have been awesome behind my 1960 B series IHC, but I f@@@ed up the B frame. Yep! I can make BIG mistakes!
This 1963 one ton Chevy has had the frame extended, just SO common around here. I'm going to cut out the added pieces and box the frame. My tape measure says the tow bed will fit nicely, then.
Only my dopple-builder Mike Baird has this many irons in the fire. Who wants to top us? gotta show pictures...

First add-on GONE.

Better pictures while it's light.

Paint matching. Which one looks like a closer match to you?

Cut the added one foot of frame channel out. Original wheelbase will be restored.

Returning frame to original length wheelbase. I've removed two 12" added pieces of channel. Gonna butt up and tack and check for straight and even.

What else will you do to increase strength in that area? I ask because I may be doing that in reverse(adding to the frame) later on and was wondering about strength at joint.

Lloyd, I'm cheap and direct...I will shine up those removed 12" sections of channel and use them to box the frame over the cut. i'll bolt and weld the boxing channel sections in.

On big truck frames, the minimum recommendation is to cut the upper and lower flange at a 45 deg angle and the main web also, to spread out the point that is stiff. Welding frames makes a stiff or stress point, by spreading it out it will be less likely to crack. I have seen a "finger" weld on the web section but not sure that would be required for all but the most heavy loaded splice.
If an outer or inner "glove" is used, it should extend well beyond the weld area and taper, not end abruptly, for an example, look at a truck with a Hendrickson walking beam suspension, they all have a "glove" where the suspension mounts that extends to the front and back
My '89 was stretched and did heavy-haul and was ok. They did a straight cut, and if I know what I know now, I would have had someone who knew better do the work.

Thanks Guys, Either I find a newer under the body set up in 152" length or I have to lengthen the frame for the L112. No work starts until the shop gets cleaned out of Dry Cleaning Equipment. Even if I have to haul it to the place that keeps telling me they want to buy it. Once that is done, I can work on both my Dune Buggy project and the L all winter long.