OldIHC

I found my number 6, 7 and number 8 retractable cord units on Craigslist yesterday and today. I like to use these retractable cord units to hide the power cords on some less often used shop machines. I have a Franz Kuhlmann pantograph engraving machine I am rewiring and it will get a retractable cord.
I hard-wire the short end into the machine and a male plug goes on the retractable cord that can be up to 6 meters long.
Two of these retractables are SnapOn. The SnapOn units are identical to the white units. They are all made in CANADA.
The maximum I have paid is $20 each.
I am mindful of the retractable unit's maximum amperage.
Is 8 enough? I cannot say no to a good deal.

I also like the Air retractable reels.

Yes, mindful of the maximum amperage, and mindful to fully withdraw the cord before use- a lesson I learned the hard way.

What does that mean? I do not understand.

Don't want to pull max amps on a cord that is all wound up on the spool, cords can carry more current in "free air" than when wrapped around a spool, as the heat can build and the cord overheat.

The BALDOR 1/2hp, I have, takes 7.9 amps @110 and 3.9 amps @ 220.
Unless there is something I missed or do not understand, I think I should be able to use 220 with the retractable. If this is not possible, I will be using a non retractable cord and 220. The retractables have three wires, ground, neutral and power.
do not think the KELLER hacksaw will draw a lot of amps and it may run well on .25hp. The other machine I want to have a retractable power cord on in my Franz Kuhlmann pantograph engraving machine. I was surprised the Kuhlmann was wired for 110 volts. It is made in Germany and 220 volts is what I expected. The motor on the pantograph is small and I do not remember the amps. I will check for voltage options.

I got a screamin' deal on a bunch of these worm-drive 30-1 speed reducers, so I bought the remaining stock. They all come with hand cranks and a cable spool. The seller loaded the drives in my truck so I had no idea how heavy they are. A short Google search shows 63 pounds each without the hand-crank, sleeve and spool.
One of the units will go on my beading machine and the others will go on CL in about a week or two. I pick the others up tomorrow.

Sorry I did not respond sooner, missed your question. CB pretty well summed it up. I bought a retractable cord/trouble light for my Dad for Christmas back in the 80's, probably Black and Decker brand. He hung it from the garage ceiling powered from the door opener receptacle. I used it one day to charge a battery in a vehicle, and pulled only about four feet out. The current heated the remaining 20 feet or so up enough to form a solid mass of melted plastic, then two of the wires came together and tripped the breaker. When Mom came home from work the opener would not work and I went out to a smoking mass of melted plastic right next to the plywood ceiling in the garage. One of many episodes I have been lucky to live through...

To be certain, you have a far greater knowledge of the electrical draws of your equipment and the retractable cords than I had then or even have now. I am sure that your calculations are correct and the cords will work out for you as you plan to use them. I clearly overloaded an inferior product with a heavy load tool while most of the cord was rolled on the reel, and it failed. I'm lucky it was a fairly cheap lesson to learn.

Thanks for your response. I am more lucky than smart.
The used retractables I buy are MADE IN CANADA. Only the oldest retractable does not have a fuse.
Same time ago, I neatly and carefully wrapped the light duty wire from a charger for my SnapOn screwdriver around the charger case. I left a 6 inch "pigtail" out. The screwdriver charges in about 20 minutes. I disconnected the charger and the case of the charger was hot enough to melt grooves into the plastic case.
I am going to load up one of the retractables with the cord fully wound, then check it after 20 minutes by pulling all of the cord out and checking for heating
A few of the retractables have damaged and or frayed cords. The most cost effective way to replace the cord is to buy a high quality extension cord that is slightly longer than the original cord in the wind-up works. The retractable ends up having a much longer primary cord (wall outlet to the retractable) and the extension cord has factory vulcanized ends.
Much to my surprise and delight, I am able to buy a Canadian made extension cord at LOEWS. These Made in CANADA extension cord have a nice old-school real rubber feel and do not resist uncoiling.
The last used Canadian retractable purchase takes my total up to 8.