OldIHC

Wont be long till the dust comes of the cummins project. Will need it to cart the H around.

A friend emailed me this link. I know roughly what you have in your ‘40 and I know how much I have in my L. Check out this dealership in Charlotte, NC. to see what others have invested and the asking prices.
http://www.rkmotorscharlotte.com/sales/ ... ctive#%21/

Every one of those US dollars costs me $1.29 Canadian. There are some beautiful vehicles in the advert.
I know this for sure, every one of those vehicles cost someone much more than the asking price. It is not fair, but that is just the way it is.
The exchange rate hits me hard when I order anything from south of the 49th.
I fueled up my Ram 2500 Diesel today. $156.00 bought 101 liters of Diesel at the PETROCAN. About half of our fuel comes from Washington State.
I am waiting for our dollar to, maybe, recover a little so I can buy an AC adapter for our Cummins 4bta.
https://duiser.com/shop/diesel-conversi ... ory-mount/

I have been busy with so many other things. I have gotten used to ignoring the Ford. My only reaction to it has been avoiding contact so as to not scratch the paint. Tomorrow will be the day to wash the Ford and see if the fitted car cover fits. The temperature should be close to 30C so any moisture in small places should evaporate quickly. I bought a Spin-Mop and a micro-fiber mop for washing the Ford, ONLY!!!!
There is very little left to do. The modified MALLORY DUAL POINT distributor housing has undergone extensive modification. I followed the instructions from ELECTROMOTIVE and the next start try should have a better result. I got about 5 seconds of run and some CEL codes that indicate ignition fail. the engine is out of time, now. I need to set the engine at TDC #1 power then set the "distributor" to match. this is all fiddly stuff and a degree one way or the other may compromise the best run. Although the ECU can learn and adjust a little from sensor information.
Tomorrow, I need to finish some thing under the dashboard, install the steering wheel and the front seats. I will change out the LED dash lights for tungsten bulbs. the LED lights will not dim unless I replace the light switch with something compatible with LED for the dim function.
I may install the satellite location system before I install the leFt rear seat back rest. I had the back rest out to exchange two wires so the third brake-lite would show left and right to match the brake/signal lights. The back-up camera, radio and the dash cam all work just fine. The power windows, power cowl vent, power trunk, air compressor, power door locks, power seats and air suspension all function properly.
I had to machine out a few fiddly parts to adapt a 78 year old reproduction antennae to a modern ALPINE radio.
My A-H neighbour stopped in for a visit. He was emboldened by a more than a few beer and a snoot full of THC. He started to fall and finally sat on a bumper. He may have had something sharp in his pocket because he left a scratch in the paint, just below a headlight. I think his bruises will heal before the paint scratch. I called his wife and told her to keep a leash on him. I have had nearly 100 visitors in the last year. 99 of them managed to do no harm.

Not so long ago, I heard a single sharp snap near the dashboard in the Ford. I was expecting the worst. The steering wheel had cracked open about 3 millimeters. (1/8") My first thought was, "This is going to be expensive.) I bought this LeCarra Mark 40 steering wheel more than a decade ago. http://www.lecarra.com/
I called The Old Car Centre, where I bought the steering wheel and explained my situation. John called LeCarra immediately and asked for suggestions on what to do. Without hesitation, LeCarra said they will replace the steering wheel.
This is the highest level of good customer service I could have expected. These steering wheels are not being "given away" at $400 cdn. I am pleased to have had LeCarra make it right, no hesitation.

While I am waiting for the replacement steering wheel to arrive, I bought a https://www.autometer.com/led-lighting-dimmer.html The instrument LED back-lighting will not dim with a variable resistance rheostat common to tungsten bulbs used in instrument back lighting. I was told tis electronic LED dimmer is a PWM or a pulse width modulator. I have a few knobs left over from a set I machined out and did not use, one of these will fit the PWM. The dashboard has one remaining OEM hole that will be perfect for this PWM.
A reproduction 1940 ford Dash is $750cdn at https://www.bobdrake.com/1940dash

I bought a pulse width modulator from an AUTOMETER dealer. I will be installing it in the Ford tomorrow. The gauges and clock are illuminated by LED. A common rheostat dimmer for tungsten bulbs will not dim LED. The PWM goes in line between the LED lights and the dimmer switch circuit.
Today's task was making a simple bracket. The bracket will be held in place, out of sight, behind the lower valance, with 3M DUAL-LOCK

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
I tried to stay very close to an engineered design that was tried and worked. I side-stepped the design a little by using a totally redesigned Mallory dual point distributor with tone wheels instead of points. My redesign as not the problem, as it turns out. The sensors spent too long in a drawer getting jostled about. This caused an open in one of the wires.
The electronics and laptop diagnostics was quick and right to the point. I wonder if this is the first 78 year old
Ford to get a CEL (check engine light)
I called Top End Performance and in a minute a new set of sensors were on the way to my address in Point Roberts, WA. Pictures of my complicated redesign were accepted by the in house engineer. Now I want to hear some start and run sounds.
Because of the open circuit in the crank sensor, there is no spark or EFI. Just for my amusement, I sprayed some ether onto a shop cloth and set the cloth in the air-filter housing intake.. Two revolutions of the engine, on the starter, and the four wire heated O2 sensor registered an elevated unburned hydrocarbon reading.
One side of me hopes for success and the wicked side wants a fail so I can buy and install new Cummins 2.8, common rail Diesel. That may be a first for an 1940 Ford. Which ever, I am OK.

I wish i had your skill and capability, but that i guess would take a working life time. Luke

Wishes are only granted in fairytales. Belief is intellectual surrender. If I appear to be skilled, it may be because what you see is supported by a collection of failures that are not shown.

It's both nice and frustrating when you build something from scratch and find that your stuff is built far better than the parts it interacts with. When it doesn't work, my first thought is what did I mess up?
I built a APU for my semi tractor before rigmaster and the rest started. What I am most proud of was the controls, all electro-mechanical and never once in the time I had it was there a control failure. It work from the 1st until I took it off years later. What was most disappointing was the OEM's alternator mount, it kept breaking and when I "beefed up" the parts that broke, it would break somewhere else, twice it broke the timing cover.
My unit would heat the cab, cool the cab, heat the engine and trans oil, and keep the engine coolant warm, or provide 5KW of external 240/120 volt power. All selectable from inside the cab. It could also keep the truck cool or supply charging if the trucks A/C compressor or alternator failed while underway.