Sunrise Towing Service

For me, replacing two solid axles with two solid axles makes the most sense. For me, it is easy and there can be less engineering. The original springs are most often suitable. A person can drive the project as a two wheel drive until a suitable transfer case can be found. The replacement axles have modern components and easy to find parts. Disc brakes are part of the package deal.
I cannot see myself ever flopping an Old IHC onto a modern frame and losing most of if not all of the box depth because of the rear frame kick-up.

Lloyd, If you are going 4wd I agree with Nikki. Otherwise, IFS from a frame swap is the way to go. If all you're going to do is add straight axles, I think stock frame is fine. I'm doing that on my k series 4wd with Toyota running gear.

You do good work Mister Don. I like the "What if factor" without having to get my hands dirty.

Took Saturday morning and cleared a path for tow truck bed removal. Normally, due to our drought, there would be little foliage growing. Unfortunately, I "planted" the tow bed across the alley from my farmer neighbor's persimmons. He waters those things night and day. My trees are fed by his over-watering. Crazy in a drought!

Interesting discussion about welding frames - I knew I would be learning stuff on this forum!
I want to shorten the frame on my C35 (160") by about 20". I'm a little spooked about cutting/splicing so I'm thinking instead about moving the rear spring hangers forward on the frame - would still need to cut a slice out of the side to accommodate the bottom of the front hanger.

Don, congratulations on starting another project That's a nice Chevy and will make a great wrecker. I like the color, but I'm kind of partial to yellow (see attached, at least it's yellow and a chevy).

Mike, I agree about the frame-splicing. On several occasions I've just slid crossmembers and axles forward on a ladder-frame, shortening wheelbase. My family has learned to deal with my awfully noisy air hammer spitting out frame rivets.
Then a mechanic friend in town pointed out how S-10 (and doubtless many other) truck frames are made. Chevy S -10s have a frame "joint" just aft or adjacent to the rear of the engine bay where the two (front and rear) completely seperate frame sections are welded together. That's how S-10 does different wbs. ONE front frame section welded to whatever wb frame they want.
My point is that we all need to relax a bit on splicing frames together. Like CB says, you should do the 45 degree cut on the flanges, at least, if you are able to spread the load around away from the weld.
I butt-welded my one ton Chevy because that's the only option I could see. I'm boxing the splice as we speak. I use a Snap-On 250 Muscle Mig with the heat turned up for good penetration after v-ing the cut. The "Snap-On" thing is only because the dealer let me make payments, not because I'm snooty.
Your yellow Corvette? Gorgeous! Money in the bank, sheesh!

I was hoping for a jus a little snooty. I have MILLER, how is that for snooty?

Oh, Miller. La de da, Nikkinutshop! What's next, solid gold hammers?

Does ESTWING count for any shop status?
I bought a bunch (50) of Estwing hammers at a bankruptcy sale, $5 each. I resold most of them at work. I may have 3-4 left.
My most expensive, to replace, hammer is made of Lignum Vitae. It is a panel beaters hammer. The wood is so dense that it will not float on water.

Estwing hammers are awesome! They always get bid way up on ebay, too.