My '89 9670 build


For you lovers of the Class 8's and bigger.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Post Sun May 01, 2016 1:41 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

CB, I have to agree with your electrical and plastic comments. On newer cars, I just can't imagine this "tupperware" stuff lasting very long. The wiring is something to behold. As copper gets more and more expensive and there's more circuits to power and sense, the gauge of the copper wiring has just gotten so small. We worked on a 2000 era Ford Powerstroke Diesel PU that literally SHOOK the MAF sensor wires until they broke inside the insulation. All three wires! Those of us that grew up and do automotive work in CA are not used to the freezing and corrosion you get in other places. We wouldn't know what to do, here! THAT plus the cheap materials and the complexity spells DOOM.
As a smog tech I'm forced to attend automotive classes on a regular basis. Some high-end vehicles are now using an onboard "wifi" system called ethernet. This is how automotive modules talk to each other on these cars! Only the powers and grounds are hard-wired. I'm waiting for my first "accident avoidance" computerized brake repair or my first ethernet repair. Oy! The OBDII systems on these newer vehicles require something called a Pico Scope to diagnose communication "bus" errors. Really beginning to look like NASA at my shop on some days. I therefore have NO confidence this new stuff will LAST. It's too finicky, vulnerable to the elements and waaay too complicated.

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Post Sun May 01, 2016 3:03 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

easy to fry with an EMP burst, no matter where it comes from. Simple definitely has its draws.
As for the cost of a vehicle that moves cars, IE, Car Hauler, I saw one at the auction, quite a sight to behold. place for one vehicle over the cab, and then eight more mid size on the trailer, all matching, all put together by the same company. The 42 year old fellow driving it said his payment was a little over $7,000 a month and he has had it two years. He figures he might have it paid off by the time he is 62. I do not remember what he said it cost but I know it was north of half a Million. Oh, and as CB can attest, the payment is only part of the cost to run. Insurance, taxes, gas taxes, permits, fuel, upkeep, on and on.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Post Sun May 01, 2016 3:24 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

I got into trucking buying used and figuring I knew exactly how much money I could loose if I had to walk a way from it. I've stayed in trucking using the same formula. I just can't imagine putting myself on the hook for that kind of cash or obligation.
If it all blows up tomarrow, I know what I have lost "out of pocket" but the bleeding stops as soon as I turn my back on it.
With all the changes of rules and reg, medical requirements, etc, you could find yourself unable to truck and still owing big bucks on a rig like that. I just don't have the faith in the future to make that kind of commitment.
I waited until the OBR rule (electronic log book rule) came out and exempted 1999 and older trucks before investing 4 grand in the rebuild/re-core of the '83. Most drop 4 grand every week and half between truck and insurance payments. I carry no physical damage on my trucks, as they are old, and insurance isn't likely to pay much anyway. The time I was hit, his insurance had to pay and it wasn't a total anyway.
I know I'm in the minority, but people like me and Joey Barns (King of Obsolete) would rather face keeping the old going or walk a way from it than tie ourselves to big payment when trucking doesn't offer the kind of rock solid long term returns.

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Post Sun May 01, 2016 3:39 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

Kind of the same philosophy as my son is operating under. He tries to pay cash for truck or trailer. We are currently using a couple of old Ryder trucks with boxes gone, pulling three car trailers. Did not know about the OBR and exempted 99 and older.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Post Mon May 02, 2016 6:44 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

After suffering the indignities of prostate cancer and brachytheropy treatment, maybe, my first choice should be a getting a new Peterbuilt.
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Thinking risks being controversial and possibly being offensive

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Post Mon May 02, 2016 7:43 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

nikkinutshop wrote:After suffering the indignities of prostate cancer and brachytheropy treatment, maybe, my first choice should be a getting a new Peterbuilt.

Naw, they're all made of plastic now a days :t1809:
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Location: SW Washington

Post Sat May 07, 2016 11:11 am

Re: My '89 9670 build

I'm happy driving an '06 Kenworth with a C-15 Cat for my boss, but if I was going to buy my own truck it would be a mechanical engine. These newer engines go a million miles before having any major work on them, sure, but the electronics are always giving trouble. About every 3 or 4 months there's something haywire with mine. CB, what's your opinion on silicone coolant hoses? They seem to need replacement about every two years. I've been in the same truck for three years and one hose has been replaced three times.
'52 L-160 dump truck
'57 RD-405
'58 Allis Chalmers D grader

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 5160

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Sat May 07, 2016 11:28 am

Re: My '89 9670 build

I have some of the orignals on the engine I built for the small cabover. They were new in '88 and over a million miles ago. They need the special clamps (lined) but other than that, no problem. Can't see why you are blowing them every 2 years?
Mine are made like straight radiator hose and are not to be used for bend. I have some silicone heater hose, which is designed for bends and it is original to my '92 Marmon and still in great shape.
Having said that, my '94 Ford Explorer has 200K miles and ALL the original hoses, and they are the conventional kind. Not sure what I'm doing for them to last, it certainly isn't obsessive attention, as I'm doing good if I change the oil once a year.
BTW the engine I rebuilt had 1.2 on the original pistons and liners, the bottom end needed bearings @ 680K and got them and another crank at 700K... A mistake I will not make again :oops:

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Mon Jul 04, 2016 8:03 am

Re: My '89 9670 build

Finely got time to get back on the big bunk cabover. I put the original engine for it into the little bunk and it is doing fine. I think I will put rods and mains in the junkyard engine and see how it runs, Putting an engine in is the last big job it needs. The rest is small things, a lot of them but I can pick away at then as time allows.
I got the 3.73 ( IHC 472) in the front hole and a set of spoke hubs on the rear drive axle. That leaves only the front drive axle with "Budds" and they will be gone before it hits the road. (Did I mention I HATE Budds?) The last 100,000 miles I ran this truck, it was as a single screw with a tag. IHC rears used the same bolt pattern in the front and rear housing. I put a 3.54 rear, rear in the front rear housing and ran it like that. Running the little bunk, has shown me that a 3.70 or 3.73 is a better ratio for my use.

I need to replace all the U joints from the jack shaft back. I also need to have the shaft from the jackshaft to front driver made. I think I have enough pieces to just change one yoke and have one shaft shortened a bit.
I am un pleasantly surprised one how much has deteriorated from sitting. I have rust-jacked brake shoes, as well as broken air-bag brackets. The exhaust needs attention.
Most of this is small stuff that I can pick away at a little at a time.
I hope to get an engine in before the cold weather hits, that is the last big project that requires I work outside with the boom truck, the rest of the work can be done in the barn.
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Location: SW Washington

Post Sun Jul 24, 2016 7:48 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

cornbinder89 wrote:I put a 3.54 rear, rear in the front rear housing and ran it like that.


Did you bolt a plate over the rear axle hole or leave the rear end in? Did you have to do anything to make sure the hubs had enough oil if you used a plate?
'52 L-160 dump truck
'57 RD-405
'58 Allis Chalmers D grader
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