Fri Mar 24, 2017 9:34 am by jessemas27
I understand the situation with March. So, basically, the 2015 Coyote has the Boss cylinder heads with a better valvetrain. The timing stuff isn't as good as the earlier stuff, but it makes about 15 hp more than the earlier engine. The intake manifold on the production cars for 15 and 17 is much better than the earlier cars, but the computer is different to account for this. I don't believe that there would be any issue with you using exhaust from a 2011-2014 mustang and factory takeoffs are abundant. To be honest, I've scrapped at least three sets from cars that I put long tube headers on. If you choose to go that route and don't have to notch your frame, I can sell you a set of catalytic converters that I took off of a car with 700 miles on it. Unless you just really don't want to smell fuel vapor on startup, there really isn't much benefit to them. I'm assuming that you'll get your truck dyno tuned after it is running, so you'll be running a much better tune than 95% of the cars out there. The factory tune on the Ford Racing setup was pretty darn rich out of the box.
The only modifications to the body that were needed for my build was the firewall, a small bellhousing relief on the toe board, and I did cut reliefs in the inner fenders to clear the upper control arms. My KB is maybe 3 inches lower than the factory height, but it sits up pretty well and I'm nowhere near scraping anything.
One unexpected thing that I encountered was the alternator. I had a Boss alternator setup, but it does not fit between the frame and the block I ended up running a super mini alternator from East Coast Auto Electric. They are super helpful and informative. Unfortunately, the highest amperage that I could fit is 80 amp. I have the fuel pump, headlights, two fans, transmission computer, and engine computer to keep electricity to. It keep up great going down the road, but summer night time traffic at shows draws the battery down. I really want to get the factory 130 amp alternator in there so I can run the A/C on top of everything else once I install the under dash equipment. I can't run an overdrive pulley for lack of space. If you're going to run electric power steering, this is something that you want to really consider.
I also had to use the smallest brake booster. It works, but it's like having manual brakes. I'm going to switch to hydro-boost down the road. My power steering pump is bored with this light truck, so I need to give it more to do.
Feel free to ask me any questions that you might have. I'm not good at the photo sharing website, but I can get you any specific pictures that may be helpful as well. I'm running the 4R70W with a Performance Automatic controller. It has a lot of adjustments and can be made to drive like a factory car, or hit gears like the meanest drag cars out there. I'm also using a Lokar throttle pedal purely for looks. It is VERY responsive. In fact, since I have the original seat, it is too responsive. Bumpy roads make the driver move up and down which somehow moves the throttle up and down. Go figure.