47 KB2 build

Just run it without oil. Might last about two miles. Seriously, Who's vehicle is it? If your Father in Law retains ownership, just get it running and keep him happy. If you go down that long expensive road of Changing out motor/trans/brakes and or axles, and all the other things involved with it, you might as well buy a Chevy. Especially if you want to go fast quickly. These vehicles are NOT a quick build, but if you want to drive it, and the motor in it runs, fix brakes, and drive, make your Father in Law happy, he will appreciate it, Once running then you can look at all the "upgrades" you want to do, and more than likely get him on board with them. Not to discourage you, But any way you look at it, it can get real expensive to "upgrade" even if you just "dropped" the body on something newer. Just this old farts thoughts, If it is your truck, then do what you want, only you can determine how that affects family dynamics.

It is technically my father in laws, however I am allowed to work on it if it is within the parameters he has set. Then once it runs I can't title it in my name, though he will still have final say in decisions.

I understand it's a long process, but what part of working on cars isn't a process?

Then, I would say, give him what he wants to the best of your ability, It is the memories that he is after. Just the perspective from a 64 year old fart.

The general plan is my wife's little brother and I will get in running together as a brotherly bonding time (he has 3 sisters and 3 nieces so very little male contact) then when my father in law drives it and sees how slow it is he'll probably agree with us, and help do a motor swap. (He has a lead foot like I do, and we find ways to race each other all the time)

Sounds like a sound plan for now. Enjoy the time with both of them.

In that case does anyone know of ways to get more power out of the original engine? Better intake, headers, porting the heads, etc

Possible turbo, possible pertronix ignition, possible Injection style fuel. Also looking for a better geared rear end you can swap in, also possible to perhaps put a newer style transmission.
Others should speak up and have much better info than I.

If this truck has the original engine, you are stuck with what it does. The OEM 214 will not stay together with elevated engine speed. If you add a turbo or supercharger to the engine to make it breath better there will be an elevated heat problem to deal with that these old iron lumps were not designed to handle. Higher rpm equals speed. More power is better in the hills.
In an effort to make my Ford C69 Flathead V8 more powerful, I added an Eaton M90 Supercharger and TEC3r engine management and in as fast as I can say this, I was out of pocket $15,000. All of this will give the Flattie more torque and the electronics will limit the engine speed to a maximum of 4500 rpm. I spent more money on a Gear Vendors Overdrive to have a ,76 ratio improvement on the 4:10 Ford 8.8 differential. The final drive is now 3:116, in overdrive.
If you want to go faster, sooner an engine transplant may be the only reliable option for this truck. While I would not consider an Small Block Chevy V8, I have to admit that this SBC is one of the best for fit, cost and reliability. Having said this, If you decide to go this route, be prepared to spend a bucket of cash on the modifications that follow.
One of the senior members on this forum installed an Oldsmobile Quad4 in his "K". HIs Old Binder goes like crazy. The Quad4 fits, is reliable, powerful and economical and should kick the butt of most SBC.
A Mercedes five cylinder 300td will fit and have more power than you have now. My friend installed a Mercedes 300td automatic in his IH and he is very happy with it.
There are kits to turn a VW TDI engine into a North-South configuration and a good TDI will beat an old GD-2114.
It might be difficult to find a good Cummins 4bta, now. This engine will fit and has the power to push you "K" along at better than highway speed.
I bought a good running Cummins 4bta and had the fuel injection rebuilt and the governed rpm elevated to 3200 rpm from 2400 rpm. The injection repair and modification added to the many other seals gaskets and changes has pushed the 4bta to nearly $10,000. This engine is going into a 1952 L110.
If you absolutely cannot enjoy this truck as an original be prepared to spend lots of money and maybe only a little less if you have the tools and skills to do the work yourself.
Do not forget that you will have to consider getting stopped if and when the truck goes faster. A disc brake conversion could cost more than $650.
Don't be one of those persons who manage to buy an old Binder for little more than scrap or inherit one then think the parts and or modifications will also be junk priced. It is a trick and a trap.

I understand car parts are expensive, I've worked on them before.
I do however plan to use as much as I can from a scrapyard (engine, trans, radiator, turbo) but all of that is in the future. For now I gotta keep the original engine.