choke dash knob mod

I have an electric choke on the carb so I don't need the manual choke cable. I converted choke and gas knobs to use a pull switch. Here are a couple pics of the choke. I had to buy the set screw (I should have used a cap screw and saved a trip to Lowes) and switch. Everything else I fabb'd or had.

I'm using the gas switch to turn on/off electric fuel pump.

A dash of ingenuity, on your part. Very well thought out!

Nice job on the re-use of the knob.
I cringe everytime I hear of someone useing a manual switch for an electric fuel pump. So easy to leave on at the wrong moment, like if smoke is comeing out from under the hood, or after (god forbid) an accident.
The very least I would use would be an oil pressure switch the cuts the fuel pump when no oil pressure. The 1st cars to use electrics used an oil pressure switch, more modern cars use the ECM and spark signal to only have the pump on when the engine is rotating, plus they add rollover and impact cut-outs to shut the pump off if there is a bad impact or roll over. The last thing you want is gas spraying everywhere from a damaged fuel line.
even if none of the above bad things ever happen, it is almost 100% that you will forget to turn it off at some point, even if the feed is from the key switch, with the key on engine stopped.
We all think bad stuff will not happen to us, but it does and that is why safety is so hard to build into stuff. It is the things we don't think of, or don't think will happen, does and that can hurt us.

Ford use a crash/impact/roll-over switch to shut the fuel off in a roll-over or crash. In the F series, this switch is located behind the right kick panel, if you are looking for one in a pick-a-part. I was buying them for $5 and I have about 6, including one I bought from Ron Francis wiring. The RF one was much more than $5. There are several on eBay http://www.ebay.com/bhp/inertia-switch
If you go to the recycler (wrecker) remember to take a "pig-tail" length of wire and the special connector with the switch. Take the long mounting screws also.

I'm using an inertia switch from a taurus wagon. it was pretty easy to pull and to install. And the FP relay is powered by the ignition switch. I'll dig into the oil pressure switch idea. Thanks for the tip.

rick

Here's what you need. Several to choose from:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/11200/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/7872/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/12-810/10002/-1

If I understand the diagrams, the normally closed (NC) contact goes to the starter solenoid and allows the pump to operate when the starter is on but the engine is not yet running. So it primes the carb with fuel in case it is empty. Once the engine fires and the starter is released, the switch closes on the normally open (NO) contact, which takes power from the key switch (or the relay activated by it) and the pump continues to run until the engine stops (or a massive oil leak, whichever comes first).

Speaking of that, I once discovered a loose oil gallery plug hidden under a mound of old oil and dirt. It was easy to spot once the dirt seal gave up and leaked all 6 quarts onto everything in sight.

The same truck was running an electric fuel pump with probably no fuse and a resistor wire assembly from a GM alternator to knock 12V down to 6V for the pump, which was added before the 12v conversion. Hey, did you know that Radio Shack actually sells real resistors? Well I didn't, not then. Stupid teenagers...

It's good to be alive.

Thanks AZD.

Good idea on the switch! Our local pick a part closed last week! They were the only yard that brought in older vehicles. The other no pick yards scrap anything over 10 years old immediately.

I guess I was a bit smarter than I remembered. Today my father gave me an old box of miscellaneous junk from my Studebaker days. Inside was a blue and orange NAPA Echlin box for part number OP6626, an oil pressure switch like we've been discussing. It's a lot less expensive than some of the other options:

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Fuel-Pump-Pressure-Switch/_/R-ECHOP6626_0061600560

Nice job on the re-use of the knob.
I cringe everytime I hear of someone useing a manual switch for an electric fuel pump. So easy to leave on at the wrong moment, like if smoke is comeing out from under the hood, or after (god forbid) an accident.
The very least I would use would be an oil pressure switch the cuts the fuel pump when no oil pressure. The 1st cars to use electrics used an oil pressure switch, more modern cars use the ECM and spark signal to only have the pump on when the engine is rotating, plus they add rollover and impact cut-outs to shut the pump off if there is a bad impact or roll over. The last thing you want is gas spraying everywhere from a damaged fuel line.
even if none of the above bad things ever happen, it is almost 100% that you will forget to turn it off at some point, even if the feed is from the key switch, with the key on engine stopped.
We all think bad stuff will not happen to us, but it does and that is why safety is so hard to build into stuff. It is the things we don't think of, or don't think will happen, does and that can hurt us.

My electric pump is hooked to the key switch. It was that way when I bought my truck and thought nothing of it.Thanks Cornbinder for the BBQ recipe. I'm changing mine. I don't fell like getting my boots smoked this way.Do you have a recommendation for the oil pressure switch part number to use on a KB1?
Invaluable info Thanks be to Cornbinder.