My 48 KB-1 on a 96 Dakota Frame

Progress is being made. To date I have completely disassembled the 96 Dakota and sold several parts from it. I got my original cost of $650 back and am making a profit now. The 48 IH is completely disassembled and the rotten frame and other parts I decided not to save have gone to the recycler. I have the complete body and some misc pieces I saved. I have sold some parts that I had no use for.
I have completely restored the chassis from the Dakota with new suspension, brake and am making the changes for mounting the IH cab and the Chevy 327 engine I have rebuilt and ready to install. The engine is on a test stand that I have cobbled together with the radiator and some gauges so I can tune and observe how it is doing. The engine has some mild upgrades such as a stage one cam or rv cam, which ever one you choose to say. It has an Edelbrock aluminum intake with Edelbrock 600 cfm carburetor. I installed a Malory HEI distributor and other dress up parts.
I am at the point of mock up for the body parts to the frame. I am going to install the engine and transmission soon so I can see if I have to make any changes to the firewall. I am adapting and using the Dakota AX15 5 speed manual transmission using a Transdapt adapter.
I used Belltech 2" dropped spindles on the front and Belltech's 4" drop shackle and hanger kit on the rear that required cutting the Dakota's spring hangers off the frame.
I found a perfect seat that measured 48" the same as the IH. It came from a Town and Country wagon third seat. It has a center fold down arm rest. I had it custom covered with a flaming IH logo on the headrests.
Here are some pictures of the cab on the Dakota frame so I can mock up the installation and some others not in order.



[imghttp://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz84/Bobbinalong/1947%20International%20Harvester%20KB-1/024_zps97fb57ef.jpg][/img]

It sounds and looks like you know what you're doing
Good luck, Don

Since the radiator support is also the support for the grille and both front fenders, I came up with a new way to mount them so I could do away with the bulky and heavy support. It will also give me about 4" to 5" more frontal room to move the engine ahead. I am trying to avoid cutting the firewall...but may still have too. I will know for sure when I mock install the engine and transmission.
The supports are made from some 4X4 angle iron and they cap the frame members and make the bracket to bolt the fenders and grill to.

You are a pioneer.
I just section the radiator support. It seems easier to me.

You are a pioneer.
I just section the radiator support. It seems easier to me.

lol..it may have been easier, but I am trying to keep it as clean and simple as I can. I may have to reuse the spreader rods or make something new to keep my new aluminum radiator from being any support for the bodywork. I'm going to make a cradle between the frame members for the radiator to set in. As much as I hate it, I will have to put the electric fan in front of the radiator instead of behind as I planned. There is not at much room as one would think in the engine bay.

Looks good,,nice and clean for a frame swap. There is quite a room in the engine bay,,,all that billet on your engine just makes it look bigger.. I am sure you can use your stock fan. Those are some swanky seats you got there!

Bob,
Your truck looks great! The body sets really nice on that frame. I like the thought you are putting into the front end mounting.

Dean

Thanks for the replies , guys. Dean, the body and frame are a perfect match for each other. The front cab mounts set on a flat spot made for them and after cutting off the old Dakota front mounts...and cutting off part of the old rear Dakota mounts..you can then move the Dakota front mount to the rear, weld it on and the spacing and height with the Dakota rubber is perfect. The bed does have to be altered to sit as low as it did originally, since the Dakota frame steps up in the rear. You only loose a few inches in bed depth but you get to use the Dakota gas tank as it was. A great switch off as far as I am concerned. I will even have the spare tire mounted under the truck using the old Dakota spare tire assembly.
The Chevy engine gets to use the Dakota stock engine mounts via a 1/4" flat plate adapter because of bolt hole alignment. I am planning on using the stock Dakota pedal assembly for clutch and brakes. Another great thing about this swap is that I get to have stock rack and pinion steering. All in all, it is an awesome match up if you want to build a hot rod out of a KB. Wheelbase, within a fraction of being the same. Width, perfect. Due to lowering, I may have to alter the front fender opening, but I will not know how much until the engine is in.
More to come soon as I progress. Progress was slow and boring up until now, since I was restoring the chassis and taking things apart. Can't wait to actually drive it the first time!
A video of the engine:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZnY7oWS8aY

Bob,
(I'm guessing that's your name?) I forgot to also say that I really like that seat!

Dean

Thanks Dean!
Bob