OldIHC

So I'm out of the Army now, moved to Midland Texas, and took over as president of an electrical wholesale store. Lots of changes have put the projects on hold, but somehow along the way I managed to pick up a new one. Not that I've given up on my "Old Flame" (currently paused viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1668&start=10), but I was lucky enough to have a customer GIVE me a '61 scout a while back. I decided it would be great practice to do up the scout before I work on my Old Flame (good practice, and less emotion if I really mess something up!)

I took a customer a delivery late last fall and he had this old girl sitting in his yard. We started talking about it, and after a while he just asked if I wanted it and if I had a trailer! (You can BET it didn't take me a minute to scrounge one up!)

Obviously it's rough, but that's why it's a "learning project" (did I mention FREE?) I couldn't think of a better name so I just started calling her "Airborne."

It got ran around several deer leases (scratches, dents, dings) rolled on a paintball course (lack of top doors, and windshield), and then parked and not touched for about 10 years, and when I got her to my shop this is how she looked:


Of course, there's no telling how many times you need to multiply that 39k miles by.

All that said, it didn't take anything but points/condenser, plugs/wires, rotor cap, and a little fuel in the carb to get her turned over. So she lives, and now the fun begins!

Four-Six,
Your Scout doesn't look too bad especially for the price. Has it spent all its life around Midland? Most Scouts from wetter areas have lots of rust. It doesn't look like a bad place to start.

Dean

As far as I can find from the DMV, she's been in various parts of west Texas her whole life...Rust isn't too bad at all, except for one of the seat mounts, and some deep pitting in the floor boards (no rust through though!) biggest issues are PO damage and a whole lot of west-texas dirt! Oh and no cab/windshield, but that'll work itself out eventually. Once I get the sheet metal off the frame it should be a blast to dig into!

The best part of FREE, is it's FREE!! You got a bonus, the IH emblem on the grill can be hard to find. MM

Free is AWESOME. I'm keeping a build log of parts/cost so I know what I end up turning "free" into. Pretty sure I'll still come out ahead.

Some progress:
First thing I did after making sure she would start was to drop the gas tank. I found about a cubic foot of dirt in the fender between the tank housing and the sheet metal! But the tank looks ok, so it'll get a light sandblasting outside, probably some undercoat or bedliner painted on the outside and a vinegar treatment and some red kote inside. (Pics and notes to follow when I get to it).
I took the fenders off, loosened all dash cables etc., pulled steering wheel/column, tossed the bench seat (anyone want/need? she'll get buckets later), and started pulling body mounts in prep for pulling the frame off. (Did I mention the beautiful PTO winch?). I decided to just cut the old wiring, it's been done/spliced/redone so many times that I figure I'll just re-do it from scratch later anyway.

This saturday I finally got the body off! Which led to a delimna: I was planning to just run it as cheaply as possible by rebuilding whatever was already there...Looking at those D27s I don't think they're going to stay; mostly because I want discs. This won't be a rock climbing rig, more a daily driver/hunting in back country (I've heard the term "expedition rig" used) so I want it to have dual prupose capability, but don't need the extremes of rock crawling buggies. BUt I do want discs, and it seems like th easiest way to get it all is a full axel swap. Torn between an "easy" D44 and a more complicated 14bolt/D60 combo. 14 bolt may be overkill, but it would leave expansion possibillity for later drivetrain upgrades. Biggest thing I WANT to keep is the PTO, so if I can avoid a xfrecase swap it would be ideal....that may not be realistic (opnions/thoughts welcome).

Anyway, going to put the frame cleaning on pause while I mull over axels, in the meantime here's some pictures. While I"m thinking/researching, I'll start pulling/rebuilding drivetrain. That little 154 should just fine for the forseeable future (max top speed around town in midland is 60 on the loop, I highly doubt she'll ever see the interstate.) Anyway, upward and onward! Airborne! All The Way! Fury From the Sky! (and all that).

Got my Line set ticket today! Unrelated, below is my rebuild outline with some links for reference/planning/how-tos (Main tasks bolded, subtasks italicised). Some of it it my shorthand thoughts and may not make sense to just read. Most of it will change order based on time/parts available/how much I overthink each step. What am I missing/what do I need to expand on?

Outline:
[X]Get service Manual
[X]Get it to fire
[X]condenser
[X]Points
[X]Ignition coil
[X]Plugs/wires
[X]Distributor/cap/rotor
[ ]Weld body rotisserie
[ ]install support straps for door openings
[X]Pull radiator
[ ]pull engine
[ ]rebuild engine
[ ]Rebuild tranny
[ ]Rebuild xfercase http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/model_18.htm http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/da ... _guide.htm
[ ]Paint engine/tranny/xfercase
[X]Frame off
[ ]Frame/Engine:
[ ]Rebuild/swap Axels (4.27): GM 14 bolt corporate: Dodge axle older than '93; pre 88 K chevy; OR '74-'79 Wagoneer Narrow-Track Dana 44
[ ]http://www.cutandturn.com/index.html
[ ]http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84244
[ ]steering box: http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/show ... hp?t=12677 1999-2004 Grand Cherokee
[ ]Brake cylinder kit and speed bleeders
[ ]Brakes
[ ]Shocks
[ ]replace bushings/rubber mounts
[ ]New brake lines
[ ]New master cylinder
[ ]break down/paint wheels
[ ]blast/coat frame
[ ]New fuel lines
[ ]Fuel Pump
[ ]Flush radiator
[ ]Clutch
[ ]new tires
[ ]Body and interior
[ ]Blast body
[ ]Fix rust
[ ]Diamond plate floor boards
[ ]rebuild bed support frame
[ ]Diamond plate bed deck
[ ]Straighten/replace body panels (CTC autoranch for parts)
[ ]windshield http://canyonoffroad.com/parts/scout-80-800-windshield
[ ]dash and new gauges
[ ]sound proofing (floors/engine/firewall)
[ ]floor drains
[ ]new seat
[ ]Under seat storage w/power inverter/cb etc
[ ]flooring
[ ]Shift boots
[ ]find top and doors (CTC Auto ranch)
[ ]professional paint and body finishing
[ ]Roll bar/Roof rack http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forums/ih ... ut-ii.html
[ ]new Shift knobs
[ ]repair Steering wheel
[ ]Frame back on:
[ ]Rewire (http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/show ... hp?t=95784) or "painless rewire" kit
[ ]Carb kit (new carb? Weber 32/36)
[ ]Fix winch
[ ]Keep it fired
[ ]new Battery
[X]Spray/degrease
[X]Ignition switch
[X]Drop/clean/paint fuel tank
[ ]vinegar/redkote tank interior
[ ]new Filler hose
[ ]upgrades
[ ]New fuel tank
[ ]build bumper/brush guard

Speaking of free,here's a helpful link...
https://app.box.com/shared/otkihx6yoa/1/32459258
The 1st folder has the MT-113 parts manual.
All are downloadable.

These will help too...
http://ih.wargenstahm.se/LST/LST.html

http://ih.wargenstahm.se/LST/Intro.html

Also read the "Index" of the MT-113, there's more info there.

A heads up... When doing a web search of IH parts numbers,don't use any spaces in the pn even though they're printed that way in the book.
ie; book shows 123 456 R1 use 123456R1 and the description that follows,(just the first word should be needed).

IH's nomenclature can be a bit "different" from what many consider "normal",you get used to it time.