Newbie: Loadstar tanker purchase soon? Looking for advice.

Hello all,
Thanks for adding me to the group. I am very interested in International trucks for a while now. I love the KB series and the Loadstar. I like their simplicity in design and the fact that there are no sensors or electronic doo dads that require a hook up to a computer. Basic is what I am after. After looking at my share of Loadstars, I have come to appreciate their lines and might say I even like them! I have always wanted a "farm truck" but have never needed one or even had a farm- until last year.

My wife and kids and I now own a small home on 3 acres with a barn, and orchard- and someday chickens (hence the Egg in the name). The property is in an area notorious for having unreliable water (hand dug wells- and clay earth) Our well is less than productive and we use a holding tank and have water delivered for around $300 for 4000 gallons once the well runs dry. I priced out drilling a new well and it is big bucks! More than we can afford and doesn't guarantee it will produce either. water deliveries are adding up.

So, I now need a tank truck rather than just want one! Its OK - I have a CDL and it is valid once again. Also, I have found a city source for Potable chlorinated water for 3 dollars a thousand gallons- I just have to pick it up!

My search has taken me to the fire tanker version of the Loadstar. Over the past year of occasional searching I have been finding is usually a Stainless steel baffled tank about 1800-2000 gallons mounted on a 20,000- 33,000 GVW chassis and cab. These 1960's trucks have maintenance records (some) and usually very low miles for their age. Usually, I have encountered hydraulic brakes with a MYCO e-brake assist. Some trucks have been separated for the tank and would need a plastic tank to be mounted (I am hoping to find a Stainless tank). Some have a massive front mounted Hale PTO driven pump which seems a bit much- others have an additional motor driven pump for the tank. Most have the standard 5 speed some have a splitter. All have hydraulic brakes.

I will likely need to buy a runner (perhaps a "crawler") and drive it home to my house. I can do most mechanical things as I am one of those fix it types as I'm sure you all can identify with. I would like to use the truck every month or so to drive about 40 miles round trip. I have gotten estimates for insurance and its not too bad.

Rust may be an issue but where are typical spots and how much is acceptable will be a factor. I expect this truck to be a slow and steady drive, and I will enjoy every moment of this gear jamming piece of performance art. I am hoping the brakes are up to the work as well as the springs and transmission. Ultimately it will need to pass a NYS heavy vehicle inspection.

My questions are many. But mostly looking for advice on what to look at when purchasing.
Any assistance, guidance, or advice is more than welcomed here.
Cheers,
Greg the Egg

Rust on the Loadstar was a problem, esp around the headlight/fender area. I'd look for one with a tank already on, preferably SS tank. pumps can be added as needed.
I take it you are not looking for potable water, just for ag use? Figure 45 mph tops and less fully loaded.
Mico (not myco) is a line lock on the hyd brakes and is not to be used to hold an un attended vehicle, they can bleed off.
None of the ex fire stuff would be clean enough for "potable" water.
Chlorinated water in a plastic tank might be ok, but my guess is you will taste the tank!
One of the S series from the later 70's/ 80's might be a better bet. Fiberglass nose but still suffer from cab rust.

Another solution come to mind from my youth. doesn't include the "excuse" to buy a truck however.
My Father bought a new fiberglass tank designed to be a septic tank. 5000 gal IIRC, partially buried, and all the gutters from the house drained into it. The rain water was used for washing and flushing toilets, well water used only for cooking and drinking.
It required some planning on the plumbing, however, with two systems so the water could be isolated.
Where as you don't live in the desert SW I would think NYS should get enough rain to supply non potable needs. The trick is to collect as much as possible from roof run off and prevent evaporation losses while being stored. Our house had a fair bit of roof area and it was amazing how much a simple rain shower could put in the tank. We had to have an overflow system to allow the excess to drain away when the tank filled. One good soaking day of rain would more than fill the tank.

I take it you are not looking for potable water, just for ag use?
None of the ex fire stuff would be clean enough for "potable" water.

Well, Yes I am looking for transporting potable drinking water, not direct from the tanker but into a cistern for storage. Then we also have a chlorine injection system which will be treating the water as it is used in the house. I was thinking a SS tank could be scrubbed and cleaned easier than a poly tank. My local water guy uses an old milk tanker truck for hauling water. Is this a huge NO NO?

Milk tanker should be a "clean bore" (no baffles) so it can be cleaned. Fire tank will likely have baffles making it not "legal" for hauling stuff for human consumption. Where as you are hauling for yourself, you can do as you wish (any cop doesn't have to know you are going to drink it). but if it were me I'd want something set up for human use. Finding a good used milk tanker would likely be pricey. I think they use a different grade stainless on sterializable tanks, along with the fittings. all designed not to hold product that can then grow bacteria.
I think the cheapest way would be a rain water catch system, augmented by a water delivery if you run into a drought. Keep the well water for potable use only. Just my 2 cents worth.

Nothing to add, but watching this one with interest. Oh, and yes, the Military had their "water buffalo" and even some larger tank trucks, possible option? They were "open" containers.