Starting when hot

Hello. Just purchased an IH Loadstar 1600 345. Drove it for 1.5 hours to get it home with no problems. Engine running beautifully. Stopped to gas up and would not restart. No fire coming from the coil. After sitting for about an hour, she fired up strong and I drove for another 35 minutes. Turned her off, no start again.

After googling the problem, here are a couple things I'm gonna do: 1. Replace the coil 2. Put a piece of sheet metal on the right side exhaust to protect the starter from excessive heat 3. Wrap the fuel line with foil to try and prevent gas from vaporizing after shutoff 4. Replace plugs.

Are there any other suggestions that can be offered? Seems as if this is a common issue with this engine. Thank you all in advance for any help.

You say your not getting spark from the coil, but with the exception of replacing the coil, none of the other thing you said you are going to do have anything to do with spark.
SO 1st make sure you are not getting spark. If not than there are many things to look at in that system alone. Don't go willy-nilly replacing things.
To test whether the coil or ign system is preventing spark. put a test light on the - of the primary side of the coil, and crank the engine. if the light flashes the ign system is sending a signal. if it stays off or on steady it isn't the coil but elsewhere in the ign system.
You can test a coil by providing 12 volts to the + side and ground the - side. with the coil wire near, but not touching the block, remove the - connection and you should see a spark at the high tension coil wire. If so the coil is working.
It is very rare for a coil to go bad, but they can and do.
A far more likely problem is gas is boiling out of the carb when the engine is shut down, causeing a flooded condition. With todays gas designed to be used in pressureized (fuel injection) systems this can be a harder to correct. When you go to start hot, hold the throttle 3/4's down and NEVER pump it. Crank with you foot on the throttle and release when it starts.

Electronic ignition?
CB is dead on, of course.
Hot engines do not like extra fuel at start. You can remove air cleaner before you restart hot and look inside with a bright flashlight to see if the fuel is boiling out of the main discharge nozzle. There should be no fuel there engine off hot or cold.
I've personally had problems with stock IHC electronic ignition when it's hot. Easiest way to diagnose is to use a "tester" distributor (housing grounded) and plug it in to the dist. pigtail on the truck. Remove coil wire from other dist. cap and spin tester dist.
Magnetic pickups inside distributors Ford, Chevy, IHC, Nissan, etc all make the same wave pattern as the dist turns and all have about the same internal resistance. Sonewhere between 300 and 1200 ohms.
A graphing voltmeter is needed, like my Vantage.
If all of this seems like a lot of bother, I agree! But that's how we fix "modern" vehicles. Good luck!

Glad your on the right track

Good luck

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. I agree that I need to do a little more diagnosis before throwing money at it aimlessly. Couple of things that I didn't include in my initial post. After the first no start, after 1.5 hours of driving 55+ mph, we did check to make sure we were getting fuel to the carb. We were. We then put 12 volts to the + post of the coil, pull the coil wire from the distributor and held to a bolt, attempted to start and got no spark from the coil wire. We did not have a test light or volt meter to assist with the troubleshooting. After about an hour of sitting, it finally started. On the 2nd no start after driving another 40 minutes from the gas station to my farm, I pulled the coil from my Ford tractor and placed on the IH and she started right up. In fact, the engine seemed to be running stronger than before. I do admit that I ran her hard on the highway (50 to 65 mph) for at least an hour. I'm thinking that the coil may be a little week because after being exposed to excessive heat for a lengthy amount of time, it could not produce a spark to the distributor. So I figured I would start there as well as try to keep the starter as cool as possible. I know that vapor lock can be an issue so I was just taking a few minor steps to eliminate as much potential problem as possible. I probably will never drive it that hard again. It was just getting it to the farm from the seller.

Any further input is always appreciated.

We're installing phenolic spacers under carbs so they don't heat soak and boil fuel. If you've ever worked on older Japanese, German carbureted vehicles they have phenolic spacers under mechanical fuel pump, too. Not a bad idea.
Chrysler and others 1980s carbureted vehicles had a fuel bleed system that constantly returned fuel to the gas tank. In other words a loop kinda like early EFI. Kept fuel cooler.
Despite the resistance here on OLD IHC I often suggest a low pressure electric fuel pump. I've been watching "Chasing Classic Cars" on Velocity Channel. I think more than half of those old vehicles have electric fuel pumps installed. Electric fuel pumps tend to push the vapor lock "bubble" of fuel out of the way.
Good luck!

I have heard about these spacers. Where can these spacers be found? I think I would prefer the spacer route above the electric fuel pump.

Well guys, I must say, my 1974 Loadstar is firing up like its a 2016 model. I smile each time I turn the key. I even turned it off a couple times just to crank it again. I'm loving it. Here's all that I did: new coil, plugs, wires, points, condensor/capacitor, new fuel filter, added carb cleaner to the fuel. Now, on to the next area of concern, brakes. I'm having to pump them a couple of times and then they work fine. From my other post, I take it that they may need adjusting in. I'll have to investigate. Thanks for all your help and input.

Summit racing shows some spacers. Google "phenolic carburetor spacer for two barrel".
Yours is a two-barrel, right?

Yes, I do have the 2 barrel carb. I'm also only 45 minutes from Summit Racing in Georgia. I'll stop by to inquire. Thanks for the information.