1970 Loadstar 1600

Hi there I've got a Loadstar 1600 with a 5 window (short) Superior bus body on it. got a 304 v8/4sp trans and a 1 speed rear end. I've had it registered as a Motorhome for about 10 years.
I've done lots of work to the "bus" part... new interior, etc, but I have not paid much attention to the drive train and chassis. I'm working on getting it truly road worthy again so I can knock the rust of the odometer.
Basically I've got a truck that runs but hasn't done any significant miles in probably 20 years. It's got to be reliable if it's going to be able to go back on the road... especially up here in Canada where stops are few and far between. I've got a long winter's worth of hours to put into it but I don't have any experience working on anything other than light cars and trucks and I don't have a huge budget.
My first step is going to be taking a good look over the information on this site. In the mean time feel free to help me out with any suggestions of where to get started or problems to start looking for etc. I'm thinking about attacking the ignition wiring first as it's looking pretty rough.
Thanks.

Check the brakes from the petal linkage all the way to the drums. I know that was the weakest link on mine. I've had to replace the booster, master cylinder, 4 wheel cylinders, and all the lines. Before the overhaul I had compressed vacuum lines, leaky wheel cylinders, and the main feed to the rear breaks busted just moving across the yard. Its not hard to do yourself just be ready to buy a set of larger sockets/wrenches if you have never worked on anything this big. I started out with a basic socket set 2 years ago and now I have more money in tools than the truck. I hope you have a few more than I started with though.

I'd agree on the brakes being the biggest money pit on the Loadstars, and maybe most old trucks. I've replaced most of the wheel cylinders and master cylinder (and vacuum booster) over the years. I need a front brake drum but they are like hens teeth (no longer available) so I am looking for a good used drum.

You may have seen this thread and my post about Line Setting Ticket's...
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2091

Believe me,they are worth the $$ especially with medium duty & heavier trucks!

I concur on where to start (the brakes) after you get it to run good.
It also might be a good idea to clean the gas tank out.It should be a frame mounted steel safety tank,not too hard to remove unless it has the crash bar. They aren't light either especially the 60 gal. one which is harder to handle being it's about 5' long.

Thanks all for the input. I had to replace the master cylinder a while back but haven't touched the rest of the system except to bleed it out. I'll go over the whole system tomorrow and see what sort of projects I can find. I know I have a busted bleeder up front so I have to get that out somehow. easy out bit maybe?
I have two fuel tanks with a selector valve just under the drivers seat. Original one looks to be the 30 gal (this is the one i've been using) and the other one is twice that size. There's an electric fuel pump under there so I'll pump out the tanks one at a time into a clean container and see what sort of contamination I've got in there.

This was glued to the kick panel...

[quote="BackForty"]Thanks all for the input. I had to replace the master cylinder a while back but haven't touched the rest of the system except to bleed it out.

This was glued to the kick panel...[quote]

Nice. I have the same type of spec sheet but mine is stuck to the driver side sun visor on my 71. I see yours has the factory tach.

Nice finding the LST! It's missing some parts but'll suffice. You should write the chassis number in at the bottom,it was cut off at the top and likely be needed at some point. I also copied it and brightened it up a little so it's easier to read.
I did a little looking using the codes,the front brakes are the same as Ralph's 14x2-1/2. It was built with a single 30 gal. tank so the other is an add-on.

I wouldn't bother with the old wheel cylinder,new are easy to get. There are 2 left & 2 right,just tell me which it is.Actually you may want to replace all of them,as the truck has sat so long they're probably NG.Brake fluid absorbs moisture or will evaporate if air can get to it. So the cyls might be pitted,rusted,piston cups dried out... New are on the web starting at around 20 bucks (less S&H) so I imagine close to that locally.

When you did the MC did you use the correct bleeding procedure? It's specific for a hydro-vac brake system and must be followed.

I can post just about any brake info you'll need.

[quote="Scottso"]

I wouldn't bother with the old wheel cylinder,new are easy to get. There are 2 left & 2 right,just tell me which it is.Actually you may want to replace all of them,as the truck has sat so long they're probably NG.Brake fluid absorbs moisture or will evaporate if air can get to it. So the cyls might be pitted,rusted,piston cups dried out... New are on the web starting at around 20 bucks (less S&H) so I imagine close to that locally.

I think I paid at least $60 each through Napa. Might have been more. And yes, left and right side are different.

You got ripped if they cost that much Ralph. I checked NAPA online,(they use the Raybestos PN's) and are $28.49 ea. online.
There are other parts stores besides Napa and are usually better with prices. With Napa you're paying a premium for repackaged parts. I know,I worked in one for 4 months even though I had no love for Napa to begin with, before leaving the parts business.
Carquest,Advance & O'Reilly carry Wagner brakes,Autozone carries Raybestos.They may have to order some thing's but usually don't charge S&H.
I even found Dorman cyl's online for around $15 ea.

My wheel cylinders came from NAPA for just over $20 each, I cant remember the exact amount. The key is to find a good parts store with knowledgeable people. My local NAPA has 3rd generation owners so they can rattle part numbers off the top of their head. But any knowledgeable staff regardless of store name will either be able to get you the right part, or tell you exactly where to get it, and that's a lot better than being handed the wrong part.