1970 Loadstar CO-1800

Received the wrong parts manual for the Loadstar, Binder Books was good enough to cover return shipping and ship me out the correct MT-112 manual that covers cabovers. Just need to find a six inch binder to hold all 1120 pages or split it up into several smaller ones.

Kind of fighting over whether or not to put the DT466 in this one or not. I really want to take it to Bonneville and the easiest route to do that is to rebuild the 392. There is a 1970 or 1974 Loadstar CO-1600 I might be able to get my hands on fairly cheap and install the DT466 in it once it is built and I could take my time on it. Last time I looked at it the 345 engine wouldn't turn over at all. It is also the shortest version they built with a fifth wheel hitch. I looked at it before I bought the CO-1800, but he couldn't get it running, it had been sitting several years and all of the tires need replacing.

One way or another I'm moving in a positive direction. I tore all of the old wood off of the bed yesterday. Trying to think of a better way to hold the new wood down than with just screws like they had it previously. There was no way that I was going to be able to unscrew any of them so I ended up sawing it all off and then popping the screws out. All were rusted in solid. Having the wood off will make it easier to get the transmission disconnected for engine removal. The steel on the bed look in okay condition, but whom ever did the wiring left a lot to be desired.

Mick

The absolute best binder to use for that book is a post binder,same as IH used. You can get them in different sizes and many are expandable,which is the type we used for the MT-112. Believe it or not that is not the thickest book IH had,I remember the MT-111 needed 2 4" expandable binders. Post binders aren't cheap but are the best choice.
3 ring notebook type binders tend to rip the page holes,so after paying good bucks for the book...
Google search for post binders.
https://www.google.com/#q=post+binders

This is perfect! (found it in the images link of search)
http://images.ebsco.com/vip/colgsttroj1b-m.jpg

The only 2 ways I know of for securing decking are carriage bolts of the tapered type used by the body mfrs.
With carriage bolts if you prefer the head flush with deck I would use a forstner bit first,then drill the thru hole.

Here's a search that might be helpful,take a look at the images link too.
https://www.google.com/#q=flatbed+trail ... ing+screws

Either type will rust eventually,a real PITA on a low-boy trailer I'll tell ya! A good smear of anti-sieze,short exposed threads and lock nuts is what I used. Another thing I've used on exposed threads is heat shrink tubing,works pretty good.

I've been thinking about using steel straps with bolts welded flush. Would make it easier to remove with nuts underneath. The straps would be flush with the top of the wood so the bead would almost be seamless.

I was able to get a hold of the man who owns the CO1600 and he offered it up at $1000. Not bad for a complete Loadstar. I'm very tempted.

Mick

"I've been thinking about using steel straps with bolts welded flush"

To be blunt...a baaaaad idea.
The post binders have hinges on the front & back covers and when fully open lay flat. The posts on the back cover is where the pages go,then there's a "strap" with posts that slide into the hollow posts and it all locks with the push of a tab. One nice thing with that set-up is if you want to copy a page or so all that's needed is pull the tab,remove the front posts and then the pages to the one you want and the others stay right where they belong.
You paid a good dollar for the book and if you want it to last use the correct type of binder,it's worth another 40 or so bucks. We had many 30ish year old books and they were like new,rarely did any get pages torn at the holes.
Post binders can have either just 2 posts or 3 which are preferable and best for a book as thick as the MT-112.
I gave a few good customers our old books when we got new revisions and some used bolts,problem there is they don't open fully and the inner text can be unreadable. I think I mentioned ring type note books tend to tear at the holes due to the pages being "glued" on the spine.

"I've been thinking about using steel straps with bolts welded flush"

To be blunt...a baaaaad idea.
The post binders have hinges on the front & back covers and when fully open lay flat. The posts on the back cover is where the pages go,then there's a "strap" with posts that slide into the hollow posts and it all locks with the push of a tab. One nice thing with that set-up is if you want to copy a page or so all that's needed is pull the tab,remove the front posts and then the pages to the one you want and the others stay right where they belong.
You paid a good dollar for the book and if you want it to last use the correct type of binder,it's worth another 40 or so bucks. We had many 30ish year old books and they were like new,rarely did any get pages torn at the holes.
Post binders can have either just 2 posts or 3 which are preferable and best for a book as thick as the MT-112.
I gave a few good customers our old books when we got new revisions and some used bolts,problem there is they don't open fully and the inner text can be unreadable. I think I mentioned ring type note books tend to tear at the holes due to the pages being "glued" on the spine.

Ahh, I think he was talking about the wood bed on the truck, not the binder for holding the parts manual... but may be I mis understand?

Ooops, I guess I need to read slower! Dam n that Evelyn Wood!

I call it age inhanced reading, thats my story and I'm stick'n with it!

I think it would be overkill for me to weld up a customized binder just for a couple manuals.

After cleaning up all the bits and pieces of wood that fell under the truck while removing it all I drove it around the block twice yesterday.
This evening I plan on draining the radiator and oil in preparation of pulling the engine. Still up in the air on direction, but once I go one way no turning back.

Mick

Mick,
Good Luck with your CO. I am also working on a CO-1800 - I have install a Ford/International 7.3 and auto trans in it. We used newer front and rear axles with disc brakes out of a International 4700. Its a long slow process but will be worth it. We are in the painting phase now, and in search of all the window seals.
Glenn

I went and looked at the CO1600 yesterday to see what condition it was in before I decide to buy it or not on Friday.

It is a lot lower than I remember it being when compared to the height of my CO1800.
Would need to figure out how I'm either going to get it running (motor might be stuck) or some way to move it.
Its only 14 feet long. The bed on my CO1800 is 18 feet.
It needs quite a few new parts such as windshield and six new tires. Probably rims as well as they are split rims.
But for $1000 it might be wise not to pass on it.

Mick