1600 Power Steering Oil Filter

You posted in the Loadstar section,but what model do you have??? What axle is it? If you want "original" it makes a difference. The more info you provide,the better the answers will be.

FWIW,
Ross where the most common steering gears in Loadstars both manual & power.The only Sheppard gears (model M39) found in the MT-127 / MT-132 (Loadstar ca. '71-'73 / to '78) are dual box systems.

These are all large heavy units and may not be suitable for your truck.

Pumps are not "all the same" by engine,they are matched to the system, mounting correlates to the pump . You'd need to know the steering code (and truck model) for the pump mentioned before going further.

Widen your search area in Ca.,the forest service has used IH 4x4's for years and had large numbers of Loadstars.Even the later S-Series are worth looking into although they may have a Saginaw system,if it has a SV8 engine adapting it shouldn't be all that hard.

Another alternative (depending on your trucks size) would be the PS system from a military 6x6 (ie; an M35). A wood recycler I worked for had a few of them and I know they have the assist cylinder set up. They also were the easiest steering truck I ever drove,even in sand I could turn the wheel with one finger.

Using as complete (off one/same model truck) a system as possible will likely reduce the amount of fabricating/modifying needed.

You posted in the Loadstar section,but what model do you have??? What axle is it? If you want "original" it makes a difference. The more info you provide,the better the answers will be.

FWIW,
Ross where the most common steering gears in Loadstars both manual & power.The only Sheppard gears (model M39) found in the MT-127 / MT-132 (Loadstar ca. '71-'73 / to '78) are dual box systems.

These are all large heavy units and may not be suitable for your truck.

Pumps are not "all the same" by engine,they are matched to the system, mounting correlates to the pump . You'd need to know the steering code (and truck model) for the pump mentioned before going further.

Widen your search area in Ca.,the forest service has used IH 4x4's for years and had large numbers of Loadstars.Even the later S-Series are worth looking into although they may have a Saginaw system,if it has a SV8 engine adapting it shouldn't be all that hard.

Another alternative (depending on your trucks size) would be the PS system from a military 6x6 (ie; an M35). A wood recycler I worked for had a few of them and I know they have the assist cylinder set up. They also were the easiest steering truck I ever drove,even in sand I could turn the wheel with one finger.

Using as complete (off one/same model truck) a system as possible will likely reduce the amount of fabricating/modifying needed.

Thank you, everyone, very much for your responses. The info given has already helped tremendously.
Yes, I know it would get to the point of needing more application info from me. I just did not want to provide info overload, as my application is not stock.

I have a 62 crew cab 4x4 with a 304 V8 I'm restoring (and modifying). I've recently acquired the trans and bell housing to convert it to a 5 speed. My intention is to make this truck a heavy duty on and off-road camper, and to overbuild it where practical for maximum durability. I do not want things breaking when I'm 2000 miles from home in the middle of the wilderness. Consequently presently I'm researching the best (strongest, most dependable) steering system. As of now this is the most difficult truck I have ever tried to steer, and will only become more difficult once I add the weight of a winch in front. I intend to upgrade the front and rear axles to the type of Rockwells as seen here:

http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forums/at ... l_axle.jpg

Therefore I was thinking if I install a Loadstar type of power steering box, it would give me the power steering I need now and have a compatible strength and capacity when I later upgrade to these Rockwells.

So, assuming I'm running this type of axle, what would be the best type of power steering box and pump I should be looking for? I don't need anything crazy big from a 6x6 but I have my doubts if a box from a 3/4 or 1 ton would have the reserved strength for peace of mind with these Rockwells, but I could be wrong. I'll be running a tall, skinny tire, but have no idea what that will be. Could probably be whatever the axles come with.

Thank you again, your help is appreciated.

Steve

Ok, I see from your intraduction that you are working on a pick-up frame and not a Loadstar. Any of the boxes I listed are way too big for the frame and could possably bend it if an obstrution was hit.
The most likely cause of hard steering is frozen king pins. So first jack up and you should be able to push the wheels lock to lock with little effort. If not then that is you problem and masking it by putting an oversize steering box will tear thing up.
I think you said it is 4wd and these have trunnion pins (like king pins but top and bottom with an open space for the drive axle in between) and the diagnois is the same.
Steering boxes are designed for the weight, tire size and turning cut of the vehicle. A big truck box will likely be wrong on at least two of these.
Yous said you were looking for reliablity 200 miles from anywhere, well cobbled together parts that aren't a match for eachother is far more likely to leave you stuck, with no one able to sort out what you have, then OEM stock no matter how obscure.
Start by getting the stock in good shape then look to PS boxes fitted to like vehicles in size and weight.
If it were my money, I'd be looking for a Dana 60 front and back, common as dirt, many parts to fit. The Rockwells are less common, and disigned for a larger truck (both weight and leinth) and will likely not allow for small enough turn radius for the truck.

Ok, I see from your intraduction that you are working on a pick-up frame and not a Loadstar. Any of the boxes I listed are way too big for the frame and could possably bend it if an obstrution was hit.
The most likely cause of hard steering is frozen king pins. So first jack up and you should be able to push the wheels lock to lock with little effort.

Now that is something I never before considered. But it would not surprise me as everything on this truck has been bad. And not because of design flaws, or old age wear and tear. But mostly because the previous owner has done so many stupid things to this truck. This truck has the worst case of po nightmare fixes I have ever seen - such as cutting a hole in the inner fender, and in the side of the cab, and in the side of the heater box to run the heater hose, rather than directly through the firewall into the heater box, or routing the fuel line through the front suspension shackle then to the fuel pump, removing the rear bumper then welding the brackets to the bumper so they don't line up with the frame, broken brake drums, crossed electrical, tape on the radiator hoses, radiator hose as the fuel tank filler hose, and many dozens of other things. Perhaps I should start a thread about po "fixes". Please excuse my rant...
I agree frozen king pins could be a possibility as there is no gasket seal of any type remaining on the 4x4 steering knuckle ball joints at this time.


If not then that is you problem and masking it by putting an oversize steering box will tear thing up.
I think you said it is 4wd and these have trunnion pins (like king pins but top and bottom with an open space for the drive axle in between) and the diagnois is the same.
Steering boxes are designed for the weight, tire size and turning cut of the vehicle. A big truck box will likely be wrong on at least two of these.
Yous said you were looking for reliablity 200 miles from anywhere, well cobbled together parts that aren't a match for eachother is far more likely to leave you stuck, with no one able to sort out what you have, then OEM stock no matter how obscure.
Start by getting the stock in good shape then look to PS boxes fitted to like vehicles in size and weight.
If it were my money, I'd be looking for a Dana 60 front and back, common as dirt, many parts to fit.

I keep changing my mind if I want to upgrade to a Dana 70 or those Rockwells in the picture. I think it all depends on which I come across first. Don't think I want anything less than a Dana 70. That's what I used in the front of my 57 Chevy 1 ton panel truck. It never broke on me, but I also never pulled a large camper trailer off road with it either. To me, the 70 seemed only adequate, not over-built. Definitely want something that can hold up through an expedition through Alaska etc and still get me back home to Southern Calif.

And there is one more reason why I want to upgrade to a Dana 70 or Rockwell, as opposed to a 60. I need the type of axle that has the tie rod on the on the back side of the axle (drive shaft side) and not on the front side. See the picture below. It shows that I have about 1.5 inches of clearance before the tie rod hits the oil pan. And my tie rod has already pushed my drain plug up into the oil pan. Despite lifting the front of the truck by the frame so the axle hangs down, it's very difficult to get a socket on the drain plug bolt to drain the oil.
http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forums/at ... 6b-055.jpg
desired tie rod type of axle:
http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forums/at ... brakes.jpg


The Rockwells are less common, and disigned for a larger truck (both weight and leinth) and will likely not allow for small enough turn radius for the truck.

Thank you. Your insight and experience is appreciated.
There are a series of videos on U-Tube that has someone with a 66 IH pickup where he put these Rockwells on. The videos start with him building up a Dana 60, breaking it, then going to the 70, breaking it then going to these Rockwells. That was somewhat of my inspiration for my desired axle upgrade. Although he runs very over-sized tires which I will not do, and he drives his truck harder than I will drive mine. But I plan on going farther than 1 day trips to the local snowy hill with my truck.

My next planned major trip will be from Southern Calif, through Alaska, then back home again, with many stops along the way. And my loaded truck will be pulling a heavy camper trailer the entire way, both on and off road.

And I tend to agree that I need to get the truck fully repaired and dependable before I concentrate on upgrades.

Thanks.

Steve

If your easy on your equipment and don't rawhide it, you can far exceed the mfg recomendations for what it was designed. Remember, they had to warntte it! Case it point:
I pulled 170,000lbs (gross wt) with a tractor and driveline set up for 300 hp, putting out 425-450hp It had a 14' organic clutch (rated for 900 ft/lbs), 3.42 rear gears and a trans rated for 1000 ft/lbs with an engine putting out 1450 ft/lbs, to no ill efffect. It took being easy on the throttle and clutch but once rolling, used all the power the engine could provide. I did a lot of heavy hauling with that truck and the rears finely gave out at 1.3 million on them, which is more then the expected life of a rear without rebiuld.
Some can break a anvil with a rubber mallet.
60 years ago, that same load would have been moved with less then 1/2 the hp and even "lighter duty" componants.
Sometimes its the "little" things that can let you down. Like how common are the brake parts for the Rockwell axle? Would you be able to come up with a shoe or cyl in the bush of Alaska?
even in Alaska, there has to be more then 150 Pick-ups for evey duce and a half running. I think parts for the Dana would be easyer to come by.
I have a friend who trucks the haul roads in Alaska (You know, Ice Road Truckers), and while sturdy componants are needed, he says the little stuff you don't think about is what can bring you down the fastest. While I carry things like spare fan drives or alternators, he carrys spare heater blower motors! I truck between Iowa and Montana,WY, and the PNW but most of my stuff goes to very rual areas, and have yet to require a tow for any reason. I would not worry for an instant running a Dana 60 (or 70) anywhere, even pulling a trailer in 4WD low.
You can't "engineer" you way out of bad driveing practices. It seams some think the test of a truck (or any piece of equipment) is how much they can abuse it, but the real test is what it can do if not abused. Often it isn't the biggest, strongest that wins, but the best operated.