Finally getting started


The workhorse

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 5170

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Fri Jan 04, 2019 4:42 pm

Re: Finally getting started

The 2 spd shifter has a level plug that needs to be filled with SAE 10 oil, there is a seal between the shifter and the rear axle (and its oil)
Interestingly, the 2spd axles are not amboid or hypoid gearsets, but spiral bevel, with the pinion and ring gear centerlines intersecting.
Any oil in the rear must be "safe for yellow metal" but most oils today are. There are a lot of phosi bronze parts in a 2 spd.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 177

Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:50 pm

Location: Below the pinky finger of the Mitten

Post Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:07 am

Re: Finally getting started

Well, it was raining by the time I awoke this morning, so no getting corn out of the bin and ground for the cows, so I tore into the front brakes. Much worse than the rears, but easier to get to, of course. My LST says I have the FA72 Front axle with front brake group 04120. When I got the LF wheel off, bearings seemed okay, if not old grease. My Service manual in Section I under hydraulic brakes looks like the setup I have, which calls them 15X2.25 two shoe. It called for a 5/8 wrench to turn the cam and shoe guide stud, but mine are special- three are 7/16, one 10mm. Not sure if these studs are removable or not, I couldn't get mine out completely, and that question went un-answered in a previous post.


The shoes have about a quarter inch or less of material on them, I think they should be relined. The part number Wagner FF-55411 doesn't come up for replacement, and that previous post indicates they are NLA. The RF upper shoe is badly soaked in fluid, I suspect the lower is as well. I broke one line leading to the rear cylinder on the LF, so that will need to be replaced, otherwise the cylinders came out easy enough. The LF cylinders could be salvaged, but the RF pair are toast, and I suspect they are the source of shoe contamination. When I came in for supper I searched for parts and found that old thread. The cylinders were listed as 3069L and 3070R, with NAPA numbers of W37167/37168. When Amazon turned cylinders up for an average of $15ea the decision to buy new was easy. Tomorrow I'll call the place in South Bend that advertises shoe relining, see what that will set me back. I reinstalled the front wheels without cylinders and shoes as I expect to get that corn done tomorrow and the truck needs to move to do so. Here's some evidence:

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Just getting started


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sticky stuff


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loosening the adjuster


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RF as found


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wet shoes


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stripped, not equipped


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think this will be okay?


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shoes


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LF cylinder

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 177

Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:50 pm

Location: Below the pinky finger of the Mitten

Post Wed Jan 16, 2019 11:49 pm

Re: Finally getting started

Made some progress tonight. Worked nights last weekend, so had little time to get much done. i took the shoes to Power Brake and Spring in South Bend, IN for relining. The total was just over $188. They were done Monday, so I went and picked them up, and also hit the Rural King for more cleaning supplies. They were out of Evaporust, so I tried two gallons of the WD-40 equivalent for the backer plates. With some Purple Power cleaner in the HF ultrasonic cleaner I hit the wheel bearings, washers and nuts. The WD-40 Rust Remover Soak went into an RK feed tub that looks like it was cast for the backer plates. All the bolts and nuts and washers went in with them, and soaked overnight Monday and Tuesday. I had the chance to work OT today and left things to soak, switching to the other side bearings in the US cleaner.

Pulled the backers out, not perfect, but better. I had to fight the urge to sandblast/powder coat, but this is just a farm truck. By Monday all the parts had appeared, so I started to assemble things Tuesday night. When I got the new cylinders on and fought with the new adjuster cams/hold down bolts to install the new shoes while the backer plate was in the bench vice. That's when I noticed the slot for the brake line fitting that bolts on from the shoe side, now blocked by the shoe. So, I had to undo most of what I had just done and start over installed on the axle.

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The parts are in!
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Daddy needs a new pair of shoes!!
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Cleaned up well enough for this job
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da udder side
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new cylinders
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all new and ready to dance


The only other issue is the book says to install the long hook side of the spring and then pull the short hook side into place. Since the short side goes behind the shoe, I see no way to possibly do it this way. I put the short side on and pulled the long hook into place. I got the RF put back together, but need to get to bed for tomorrow. Here's some shots of the latest work.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 177

Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:50 pm

Location: Below the pinky finger of the Mitten

Post Fri Feb 01, 2019 5:08 pm

Re: Finally getting started

Both sides of the front brakes are now re-assembled and installed, bearings repacked and both front wheels back on. Before the polar deep freeze invaded I needed to move the truck out to get my loader tractor in behind it to open up the spot for my plow truck. I think I have the fronts adjusted about right- but without any fluid in the cylinders, I need to bleed everything down, first.

I put together a vacuum bleeder setup- Dad worked for Gast Manufacturing, a local company that made high quality air compressors, air motors and vacuum pumps. When he was in the test lab he acquired a few parts along the way. I have a nice, small 120V, carbon vane vacuum pump, with tubing connected to a quart mason jar, with tubing connected to the bleeders. After extended fiddling and only a small amount of fluid pulled, I started to look at the master cylinder and hydro booster. there is a bleeder on the hydro, which is first on the bleed list. I had gravity bled it last fall, so I assumed it full. I hooked on there and got nothing out, so something must be wrong in there. I pulled the master cylinder off the firewall and checked it all out, nice and clean like new inside.filled it with new fluid and it came out all the joints down to the hydro. So, go after the hydro.

I was able to unhook all the connections easily enough, and three bolts later it was out. I have never touched one of these before, but what the heck, someone put it together, I can take it apart!

Moving everything inside rather than trying to heat the shop in -17F gave me a little better work attitude. The following pictures will show the rest, I hope.

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Here's the whole thing
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Up close of the important part
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Not sure if this logo helps identify it
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Blurry, but the first numbers refer to 2016? maybe
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coming apart
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The control valve
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cylinder after cleanup, one bad score mark
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maybe easier to see the score line?
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main piston, seals and score marks
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other side of piston scored as well, seal okay?


All the rubber parts looked fine, there was an obvious score mark from some previous time. No real rust inside anywhere, some jelly-like water/fluid in the cylinder. I was surprised how clean it was internally. The main piston did not work smoothly in and out, even after cleaning and lube with brake fluid. It is better now, but not perfect. I reassembled everything and figure I'll put it back on and see what happens now.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 5170

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Fri Feb 01, 2019 5:25 pm

Re: Finally getting started

It is my experience the Hydrovac's are rarely the problem. I have 3 from the 40's and not one needed disassembly.
It may respond better to pressure then vacuum bleeding. Heck given enough time they will gravity bleed.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 177

Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:50 pm

Location: Below the pinky finger of the Mitten

Post Fri Feb 01, 2019 11:21 pm

Re: Finally getting started

I was told they would gravity feed, but it took the hydrovac a few hours to do so last summer when I first tried it. When I first got the truck, we bled the cylinders and got fluid at all of the bleeders (I didn't know then that some of the cylinders were stuck nor that I had a broken spring),but may have introduced as much air as fluid...
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