OldIHC

I have a 1960 B102 pickup. I have been losing some oil from it for some time now and thought i better get on it. The oil just seems to be coming from the cover plate at the back, i've tried doing the bolts up a little more, but it still keeps on leaking. So i was thinking of removing the cover plate and replacing the gasket. So the questions i have are, what is the best oil to use and how much? Also I'm assuming that it is just a cover plate, if i remove it will any cogs, gears, springs, etc all come flying off in to a million pieces? I,ve attached a few photo's. Any help would be greatly appreciated. P.s I've looked at gangster's library but can't find the info there.
Luke

Just a cover, nothing else. All newer stuff just uses RTV and you can too if you can't get a gasket. Oil, 80w-90 GL 4 would be fine.

a different question, do you know if those brake lines in the pictures are copper-nickel rather than just copper ?

Thanks corn binder89. I will buy some gasket paper and make one for it. There is a square bolt half way up the cover, would that be the point i need to fill to?

KYoung, i replaced the brake pipes earlier this year, so i would assume they are just copper. I got a local garage to make them up for me, i'll ask the question. Luke

Yes, the pipe plug is filler AND "dipstick". When the fluid runs back out you're FULL. I personally like paper gaskets on old stuff. I guess I AM old-fashioned. You gotta knock the divots out of the cover where the bolt heads deformed the cover in order to make the gasket surface flat, again.
MAKING the gasket is easy. Once the cover is off and cleaned a bit just hold a cut-off hunk of gasket steady against the gasket surface and tap the paper against the cover with the head of a screwdriver, ratchet head or tiny hammer. The outline of the gasket is now readily visible. Cut it out!
You can do it faster than the drive to the parts store to get "what's that?" stares.
Good luck.

Wow,
A 1960 B102 I thought I was the only one. Looks like the copper line was something that some added I can understand this as the copper is easier to work with than steel. When I redid mine I bought steel lines at NAPA fitted and cut them and then flared the ends. as for the rear end they had a gasket in stock at Auto Zone. I think it was $4.00. and yes 80/ 90w gear oil is what I used. You should always check the local parts house it is surprising sometimes what they have or can get. Post a picture or two when you get a chance and good luck!

Can't go by looks on the brake line, could be copper coated steel, CUNIFER (copper-nickel line) or soft copper. Soft copper should not be used for brake line.

Here is a suggestion from my experience and from the advice from a local differential shop called http://www.iwerearendsonly.com/ Do yourself a big favour and do not use a gasket. This is the product I have good success with. https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-81182-Ge ... B0023GM2KK
That axle looks like a DANA 44. Every DANA axle will have a BOM (bill of materials) Check this site. http://www.crawlpedia.com/dana_60_bom.htm The number on you axle will link to an original DANA order for every piece that was installed in their factory. The BOM should have a build date and where the axle was shipped to. (eg: IHC) http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/deabill.aspx
Try a magnet on that brake line. If the magnet sticks, relax. If it does not stick, make the necessary changes immediately.

IS Cunifer magnetic? My guess is no as it is a mix of non-magnetic elements (Copper and Nickel)

The typical 1% iron content in Cunifer would not likely attract a magnet. Cupro nickel brake line may contain as much as 2% iron. http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/viewitems/br ... rake-lines?