brake line inside and outside diameter?

Hi folks. What is the correct ID and OD for the metal brake lines on my 1959 B110 truck? I need to replace at least the one that runs front front to rear and I want to make sure I order the right thing. Also what are the specs for the rubber lines? I should probably replace those as well to be safe. Thanks!

Steel brakeline is a SAE thing. Take a section of your rotten line and match. It comes in many lengths. Common diameters are 3/16, 1/4, 5/16". Don't need to worry about ID. Brake line must be double flared if you cut a re- made line.

The steel lines are likely 1/4",that was the most common of that era.

Since I have no MT-107 I went to the aftermarket sites for the hoses...

Raybestos
Front BH4900*

Rear BH24458*

Raybestos application look up page;
http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magnolia ... ht%20Truck

Wagner
Front BH4000*
http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-de ... lCNLxAQM1k


Rear BH4050
http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-de ... lCNdxAQM1k


Complete look up
http://www.fme-cat.com/Application.aspx ... &cat=Brake



Notes:
*Raybestos BH4900 crosses to Wagner BH3700,which crosses back to BH4900.

*Wagner BH4000 crosses to Raybestos BH4000

*Raybestos BH24458 crosses to Wagner BH24458,BH4050,BH71330,BH71333

Wagner BH71330 & 71333 cross to Raybestos BH24458

The differences are likely hose length(?).


Above PN's to Bendix. I did this because Bendix lists the dimensions including the fittings.

BH3700 = No Part Numbers Found


BH4000 = 88290
http://www.bendixcatalog.com/PartDetail ... lic%20Hose

BH4050 = No Part Numbers Found*


BH4900 = 88269<
http://www.bendixcatalog.com/PartDetail ... lic%20Hose


BH24458 = 88273<
http://www.bendixcatalog.com/PartDetail ... lic%20Hose

BH71330 = No Part Numbers Found*

BH71333 = No Part Numbers Found*


Looking at the "Competitor Cross Reference" on the 88273 pg. it lists BH4050,71330 & 71333.

Bendix appl. look up
Front 88269
Rear 88273

This is a good example of why it's good to check as many mfrs. as possible and cross checking all the numbers.

It's your choice on which hoes to use,a bit longer won't hurt and sure beats ending short.

Thanks! Ok, so 1/4" line, double-flare (not bubble flare), and those corresponding rubber lines as needed. I'll need to buy the Blue Point double-flaring tool and some other bits and pieces before I get started, maybe I'll get ambitious and replace every inch of brake line in this thing so that this doesn't happen again.

I got cunifer brake line (copper/nickel alloy), all the fittings I needed and rented a flaring tool from these guys:

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

Very pleasant to deal with. ( I needed to keep the flaring tool for a couple of extra days and they didn't charge me any extra ) The cunifer line is a little spendy, but it's easy to work with and should last forever. For about $160 I replaced every inch of my hard lines- which included tool rental, but that was a couple of years ago.

I got cunifer brake line (copper/nickel alloy), all the fittings I needed and rented a flaring tool from these guys:

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

Very pleasant to deal with. ( I needed to keep the flaring tool for a couple of extra days and they didn't charge me any extra ) The cunifer line is a little spendy, but it's easy to work with and should last forever. For about $160 I replaced every inch of my hard lines- which included tool rental, but that was a couple of years ago.

Wow, thanks for that link! I think I'll do the same (order all tubing from them, rent their tool, and replace all hard lines). Now I just need to find some time to work on it, but it'll be worth it.

Are you replacing lines on your B?

I saved all the old ones on my A and used them as patterns for the new. One snag I ran into is that there's a line that runs from the left front wheel to the right under the radiator and behind the steering box. I had to take off the steering box to get the line out in one piece.

Not too too hard, there's kind of a trick to getting it loose enough to get the line out without having to take the whole column out, but when I removed the steering box side plate a a whole lot of ball bearings fell out! Guess that it was kind of lucky I did have to open up that box, because the sucker might have locked up on me on the highway sometime, but it sure was a PIA finding all the parts for the rebuild.

I considered (after I already had the box out) that I could have made this piece in two sections and gotten it threaded behind the steering box without removal, but that would have meant a new compression fitting in that line and according to another thread on here, that's not a good idea-just one more place to leak where it's not easy to check.

Could you not have used a inverted flare union?

ayb, Be sure to get the correct flare nuts,should be 7/16-24.You may need the long nuts for the ends that screw into the hose(?) not sure how deep they are. Won't hurt if there's extra thread it's better than having to re-do a line.

ayb, Be sure to get the correct flare nuts,should be 7/16-24.You may need the long nuts for the ends that screw into the hose(?) not sure how deep they are. Won't hurt if there's extra thread it's better than having to re-do a line.

Thanks, it looks like Fedhill does offer 7/16-24 long versions of the nuts.