Split Rims

I have a 1938 1 1/2 ton DS30. It has a version of split rim wheels (Widowmakers???) I can't find anyone who will work on them. Is there a replacement or conversion for these rims to make them safe to work on.

Can you post a picture of your wheels? Where are you located? Do they have a removable ring on the outside edge? Do they have spokes? Pictures will help.

in All likelyhood, it has Goodyear style lock rings where the rim base is split at the valve stem slot. They are not "widowmakers" (Firestone RH 5 deg semi drop center rims) but do require a bit of knowledge on how to handle safely.
These would be spoke rims, and while other type rims can be fitted, finding them in the narrow width required would be all but impossable and they would still be of the lock ring type.

I went a round with the Goodyear type. They really were not too difficult as long as you made sure that you got the split (at the valve stem) seated back in good. I didn't have a tire cage so I mounted them back on the truck and wrapped a chain around them through the spoke wheels and aired them up using a clip on air nozzle so I didn't have to have my hand near. I don't have much experience with these rims but didn't feel in danger. Looks to me like the Goodyear design is safe if it is installed correctly. I can see where you would be on thin ice if you didn't get the split seated back in good.

Next: If you do give up on using them let me know. I am looking for the 5 inch version for my K4. here is a picture of my wider ones 20x6. I would like to locate a couple of 20x5s.

6" Goodyear. Looking for 20x5"

With Spokes, the wedges and/or the bevel on the back of the spoke force the rim out against the lock ring, as long as the split is aligned, it can't come apart.
Using a chain is dangerous, it can impede the rim from seating properly (get in the way of the spokes) and if the rim does come apart can shatter into shrapnel.
Place the rim on the spokes and fasten with the wedges, make sure the ends of the split are lined up and inflate to 20 psi, inspect that the rim is still aligned and inflate completely. again, inspect before removing from the hub.

Chain is not designed to stretch or deform much before failure, it is not a good "safety" device. Safety cages are made of welded tubes that will deform and absorb the energy. The amount of stored energy in a truck tire is hard to imagine. If you want to get an idea, inflate one with a bicycle pump!
A 6000lbs vehicle can break a 3/8" tie down chain (rated for over 6000lb) easly by shock loading the chain if there is any slack in the tie down. The same will happen if the rim/wheel failure is wrapped with chain, it will become speeding bits of metal, like a load of bullets or shot gun shot.

[img][img][/img][/img] The tire on this rim is a Firestone 6 X 20. Thank you for the comments received so far.

yeah, that is a Goodyear rim design (not talking about who made the tire) and you have spoke hubs.
The problem lies in how wide a rim and tire will fit the truck. Modern rims and tires will be too wide to fit, so you are more or less stuck with those rims. You might get lucky and find a different style lock ring rim that is narrow enough, but you'll still have tube types and lock ring to deal with.
A tire dealer that deals with big off road equipment or a ag tire dealer might be able to help.
You really need someone to show you how to change them safely and what to look for when doing so. They aren't bad but do require knowing what to do and look for when changing a tire on one.

Where are you located? These are not hard at all if you have the technique down. I did all six of mine at the home shop in a few hours. Had the tires shipped in a on a pallet and went to work on them. Hardest part was keeping from scratching my powder coat. If you're close, I'd come help, and i'll echo what others stated. These are not widowmakers per say. But they can still be a bit dangerous. I believe there is a picture somewhere of a guy sending the retaining ring through his roof upon (over) air up.

Where are you located? These are not hard at all if you have the technique down. I did all six of mine at the home shop in a few hours. Had the tires shipped in a on a pallet and went to work on them. Hardest part was keeping from scratching my powder coat. If you're close, I'd come help, and i'll echo what others stated. These are not widowmakers per say. But they can still be a bit dangerous. I believe there is a picture somewhere of a guy sending the retaining ring through his roof upon (over) air up.

Hi,
Where in the Pacific Northwest are you located? Just thought I might be so bold as to ask if the same offer to help would apply to me too? How close are you to Alturas, Calif? My International Loadstar has lock ring wheels on Dayton hubs and some tires have gone totally flat. I've watched a couple YouTube videos on how to change these tires, but I definitely don't feel comfortable doing it the first time without someone with experience sitting there telling me to do this then that. I know some of those videos say to use chains as a "safety" device. And others say to use an impact gun to tighten the wedges until the tire spins true. All my life I was always told a torque wrench should be used on wheels, especially truck wheels. From the videos I've seen, I have no idea how to use a torque wrench on Dayton type spoke wheel wedges. The videos I've seen all use air impact guns. And there is no big truck repair place within 100 miles of me. Hopefully someday someone will be passing through who has the time to stop for a cup of coffee and we can talk IH talk.

NEVER use an impact on spoke rim nuts. You CANNOT "torque them true" you MUST put them on true to begin with.
The procedure is to put the rim on the spokes, tighten the nut at 12 o clock snug (not tight yet), rotate the assembly so the nut that was at 6 o clock is now at 12 and snug that one. If working on 5 spoke, then rotate either the one that was at 7 or 4 o clock. Keep alternating until all are snug, then lay a block of wood or a tire hammer next to the tire and check that the assembly is true when rotated. If you did it correctly it will be true, if it isn't loosen, adjust and try again, if it is finish torqueing the nuts in alternating pattern to the correct torque.
Run from anyone who says they can torque them straight or wants to use an impact!
I've been told by tire shops that I could instruct their guys on how to do it, mine run so true.
By always tightening the nuts at 12 o clock, you are using gravity and the weight of the rim/tire to center the rim on the taper.
When doing duals (rear) try and push the spacer band as far in as possible before putting the outer rim on. Otherwise the procedure is the same as for fronts.