How to read a Line Setting Ticket?

... So fill me in on how you made a JPG form the PDF? I'd like to use the illustrations from the parts books sometimes but just can't get that to work. I can copy off a PDF and paste it into Wordpad/RTF but when I copy that it won't paste!

Hi Scottso,
Yes, I believe she did say they were micro-fiche and not micro-film.
As for making a jpg from a pdf, I only know how to do it in a round-about manner. You will need Microsoft Word or the equivalent.
-1- Open the pdf file and zoom in to enlarge it as much as possible and still see what you want to see.
-2- Then hit the Print Screen button, which does not actually print, but copies the screen to memory.
-3- Next paste it to a new Microsoft Word document.
-4- Then with Word, crop out what you don't want around the edges and resize as large as possible within the page margins, or up to 100% with Word's format picture commands. Sometimes when going larger than 100% in Word the picture starts to lose clarity, but not always.
-5- Then save the document that consists of only this picture or pictures. But save it as html and not as a .doc document. Word will create a folder for just that document, saving the picture in a couple different ways, including jpg and png versions. Then just find the jpg version you like the best and upload it to the internet.

Showing the html saving of an uncropped picture with "Save As":


Also note the 17 year old update date on the picture being saved in this example - a couple months ago it was copied from a long ago deleted internet forum thread; possibly a thread on this site before this site was hacked and destroyed a year ago, if I recall correctly. But often times information no longer on the internet can be found in the internet archives:
http://archive.org/web/
Sometimes worth checking when looking for old information, or information on our old trucks Just thought I'd mention it for those not familiar with using the Wayback Machine for looking in the internet archives.
For technical reasons google does not check the internet archives when doing a google search.
Thanks.
Steve

Hi Guys,

After a few attempts, I reasched someone at the archive who took the time to pull up the LST on their system and attempt to process the image with Photoshop. Unfortunately, it really didn't do much. But I'm happy they made the attempt.

From what I can make out, this B150 was set up with "Inc Cap Rear Brakes", "Power Brakes" , "Ft Disc Wheels 20x500R"... and a bunch of other things that I'll list over on my build thread.

Thanks,
Pete

. . .
In case I didn't mention it,the MT-112 is the IH parts manual that covers your truck,you may want to start looking for one.Just so you know,it's a thick book (about 4-6") because it also covers the cab over Loadstar and maybe 1 or 2 RE's (rear engine) and FC's (forward control) so they may be pricey.

Did a quick search and found this...
http://www.robertsbookshop.com/?page=sh ... ct_id=3836

Nice price and it apparently comes with the old style expandable post binder. Those are nice binders,no plastic...metal spline and hinges.

BinderBooks is pricey,but it is a new reprint and probably the last revision IH made.
https://www.binderbooks.com/1962-78%20Loadstar.htm

None showed up on epay though.

Keep in mind the trucks age and there were pn changes etc. over the years,so IMO the one in the 1st link would suffice.

Hi,
The book just arrived a few minutes ago from Roberts Book Shop - nice book! The exploded views are easy to understand and easily numbered for parts reference. And with sharp, dark, easy to read print. Although well used and with tissue paper thin pages, no pages are ripped and nothing seems to be missing. I'll have lots of questions later on how my Line Setting Ticket numbers relate to sections of the parts book. But for now I'm off to work on my binder.
Thank you for the recommendation.
Steve

hi,

Well, this is the first set of many questions on how to read a LST. I have lots to learn. I'm kind of jumping around in looking up things.

Re Loadstar, figuring out the front axle was easy as all I had to do was find pages (Fig 02-006) that related to a FA 58 axle with my axle code. Unfortunately my front axle does not have a no spin locker in it, but the good news is it was a factory option. But I cannot find the part number of this option, only the individual repair components, Fig 02-018. Is there a part number for the complete assembly or "kit" to convert to a no-spin locker differential? Where do I find that part number? And what is the correct terminology to use? In my office equipment repair industry such a kit was called a BM or Bill of Material and all optional and upgrade BM kits were listed at the bottom of the corresponding parts pages.

And I cannot find the seal that keeps the oil in the ring and pinion area, or does the r&p oil just slosh out into the knuckle and wheel bearing area? All I see is bushing number 893 912 R1 which, iirc with my Dodge Dana 70 axle, this bushing was just a brass bushing to hold the axle in alignment and not an oil seal. Does this IH axle have any such seals to keep the r&p oil in the r&p pumpkin?

As for the rear axle brakes, two Fig. No's come up in my parts book. Does my LST tell which is correct for my truck? Axle code 14025 parts book options:
Below Chassis No. H *
Chassis No. H * Up

Also on my Loadstar rear axle LST, what do the numbers 0051 and BG mean next to axle code 14025?

Thank you.
Steve

P.S. Will we always be on the same page if I refer to Fig numbers? Is that the best way to refer to parts book pages in this discussion?

Read the pages in the "Introduction",there should be info on how to look up parts. If your book doesn't have that,go to Gangster IH and look in the MT-132,I know it's there.The numbers you mention are not needed to look up parts,you shouldn't need any more than the component code (14025 etc.)
If you look at the end of the pn listing when you find an asterisk like you did,there should be a notation for the chassis number break etc. Since your chassis # begins with "SB" it falls under below H #'s.

In the 127 book there is only one Fig. for your rear brake code ( 04-11). Since I can't see what you mean, recheck the index first it may be axle or chas# specific(?). They're 15X4 brakes (Wagner) and nothing special,very common for the period.

Since Mike doesn't have the MT-112 I can't go by any pages/figs. as I will try the MT-127 so will go by the codes. Problem there is I found a couple from the LST that aren't in the 127 book,like the front axle & brakes.
It's apparent there were changes over the years so it might be necessary for you to post the pages when the same component isn't in the 127. (As in the above)

Edit...
I looked in the 127 book again for the front axle,no FA-58 is listed. The 1600 4x4 in that book would have the FA-54 / Dana 70.
Take a look in the Group 2 index and go to the last pages,in later books they list the codes and the axle mfr/model (also found in Grp 5,12,13 & 14). In the 127 it lists an FA57 & FA59 which are Coleman axles,so it's possible yours could be too(?). It see no "no-spin"/locking front differentials listed,there is however locking hubs listed,maybe you misread?

hi,
I intended to scan and post some pages from my parts book I had questions on, but found I now have a more basic question.
How do I open up a IH parts book to gain access to the pages? I've pulled so hard at the base of the tab shown in the first pic its started to bend. Is there some latch or something I need to do before pulling on this tab? Everything is frozen solid. I've tried oil but very cautiously as I don't want to get any on the pages, and tapping everywhere to loosen things up, but now thinking perhaps there's something simple I'm overlooking I should do before pulling on that tab.
Any suggestions/ideas anyone? Is there something more to opening the binder than just pulling on the tab? I would prefer not to destroy the binder, but a few of the part numbers on pages to my truck are hard to read because they are too close to the binding.

What kind of parts book binder does IH use now? I wonder if the equivalent to this binder is still available new from IH?

Thank you.

Steve



.

.

That's the "good" binder I was talking about,never saw any better. Some could be a PITA to unlock while others were the total opposite and wouldn't stay locked. When that happened we'd put a slight bend in the removable piece near the little stub to add "pressure",it usually helped.
From the pix it looks like the book is really "stuffed" in there? Been there too. Try this...open the front cover and place a hand flat (or forearm) on the pages and push down,then try pulling out the tab. If that doesn't work try using a piece of wood and with the book on the floor kneel on the wood. If it's as "tight" as it looks compressing the book itself might relieve the pressure and let the tab release. I recall needing pliers to pull on a few,made it easier being the tab is small and having large fingers.
As for later binders,they weren't nearly as nice,all plastic except for the posts. No hinges either and since the plastic was no more than 1/16" thick were they hinged would wear out on a heavily used book.
Post binders are still available if you want a new one,just Google them.

That's the "good" binder I was talking about,never saw any better. Some could be a PITA to unlock while others were the total opposite and wouldn't stay locked. When that happened we'd put a slight bend in the removable piece near the little stub to add "pressure",it usually helped.
From the pix it looks like the book is really "stuffed" in there? Been there too. Try this...open the front cover and place a hand flat (or forearm) on the pages and push down,then try pulling out the tab. If that doesn't work try using a piece of wood and with the book on the floor kneel on the wood. If it's as "tight" as it looks compressing the book itself might relieve the pressure and let the tab release. I recall needing pliers to pull on a few,made it easier being the tab is small and having large fingers.
As for later binders,they weren't nearly as nice,all plastic except for the posts. No hinges either and since the plastic was no more than 1/16" thick were they hinged would wear out on a heavily used book.
Post binders are still available if you want a new one,just Google them.

Thanks.
Standing on a piece of wood and pulling with pliers did it. A big rusty lock washer fell out from somewhere too - probably what was jamming it closed. I've temporarily removed the pages to see if I can get the mechanism to work better. Even oiled I still need a pliers and hammer to move the tab in or out. What piece is removable you refer to? Can the part with the tab be pulled out completely? If so, perhaps then I could figure out what is causing all the binding.

Amazing the pages are not moldy or mildewed considering how rusted and corroded the metal binder parts are. I guess if its old, and its IH, its rusty.

Thanks.
Steve

I believe I have a sales data book that is in a red 8 ring binder that measures 4" X 9 ". It is a prototype data and price book for 1967. PL-25-E. This gives different options and prices for pick-ups to loadstar models. I picked this book up several years ago at swap meet.

I believe I have a sales data book that is in a red 8 ring binder that measures 4" X 9 ". It is a prototype data and price book for 1967. PL-25-E. This gives different options and prices for pick-ups to loadstar models. I picked this book up several years ago at swap meet.

cool...
Is there any way you could scan and post it on the forum for everyone's use? Or I may be interested in buying a photocopy of it.
Thank you.
Steve