1971 1210 pickup


Golden Jubilee
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Post Sun Oct 16, 2016 7:34 pm

Re: 1971 1210 pickup

The R terminal is used when there is an ALternator light in the dash, if the truck has an ammeter then the R terminal is not needed for the alternator and voltage regulator to work.
You need switched power to termnial 4 and you should get 12 volts from the F terminal on the regulator with the engine stopped. The other two terminals are not needed for a simple truck with an ammeter.
You can test the alternator by breifly connecting the F terminal to 12 volt supply (at the alternator) while the engine is running at idle, you should see a charge as you have just "full fielded" the alternator. Do not leave it connected or rasie the engine speed as the voltage regulator is out of the circute and nothing is controlling the voltage.
For the regulator to work it must be fully grounded to the chassie.
If the truck does use an idiot light than the R terminal is connected to #2 and battery power to #3, and the idiot light to #4, Field still gets connected to F.

Golden Jubilee
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Post Sun Oct 16, 2016 7:42 pm

Re: 1971 1210 pickup

The order of likelyhood,
1) the regulator is not be fed 12 volts to #4 with the key on (or it is connected to another terminal by mistake)
2) the wireing between the reg and alternator is bad
3) the regulator is no good
4) the alternator is bad
5) bad grounds between the engine and body/frame

Golden Jubilee
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Post Sun Oct 16, 2016 7:49 pm

Re: 1971 1210 pickup

There are several ways you can wire the old mechanical Delco regulator and make it work, or you can get a CHry regulator from the early to late 60's and it just has two connections and a ground. One get fed from the ign switch, the other goes to the field, end of story. That is about as simple as a remote regulator can be.

Rookie
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Post Mon Oct 17, 2016 7:46 am

Re: 1971 1210 pickup

Thank you Cornbinder89. That's what I needed and we'll ring out some more wiring on the next trip up. I'm sure there was a lead to the reg 2 terminal but it obviously wasn't from R. Will flash field to check for output before taking alt back to Napa. I'm missing something simple. Will report back .

Golden Jubilee
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Post Mon Oct 17, 2016 8:35 am

Re: 1971 1210 pickup

2 and 3 are for a field relay If the reg has connection on these terminals then switched power goes to 2 and battery power to 3, and nothing on 4 . As I said there are many ways to wire it. If the truck has an ammeter then you can go simple or complex. The Chry reg will work and is as simple as you could ask for.

Rusty Driver
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Post Mon Oct 17, 2016 11:00 am

Re: 1971 1210 pickup

I never heard of "flashing the field" of an alternator.

A Generator, yes,... but never an Alternator.
My Junk --> 1975 IH Model 200HD, 1 ton 4x4 truck, 392, 4 speed, etc.
My cave location --> Western North Carolina

Golden Jubilee
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Post Mon Oct 17, 2016 2:57 pm

Re: 1971 1210 pickup

1975IH200 wrote:I never heard of "flashing the field" of an alternator.

A Generator, yes,... but never an Alternator.

He likely ment full fielding the alternator to test it.

Rookie
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Post Thu Oct 27, 2016 8:29 am

Re: 1971 1210 pickup

I guess i misused some old terminology. Full fielding sounds much safer than flashing something anyway. Thank you for the education. That why I'm here. Sis got antsy and took the alt out and Napa gave it a thumbs up so we're back to wiring of regulator. I was sure the truck has a 4 terminal regulator with all terminals untilised. I'm will confirm that but then where would ter 2 go? So a reg with 2 terminals could work? Ign and Fld and of course Gnd. How is the field current then adjusted to get correct voltage output for battery state? I found some 4 terminal regulators on Amazon for $14-$18 so I assume I could use anyone of these leaving the terminal 2 - R lead out of the system. And jump terminals 3 and 4 to the IGN lead coming through the ammeter. I've seen a diagram of this wiring setup for the 10 DN somewhere. Thank you guys, I'm truly appreciative of your valuable time. I know this forum business becomes very time consuming. Best, Peter

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Post Thu Oct 27, 2016 8:34 am

Re: 1971 1210 pickup

My apologies to Cornbinder! I see in a previous post I must have skipped over somehow. You suggested a wiring hook up for the 4 terminal regulator which I will ring out when I have that opportunity. Will stay in touch.

Golden Jubilee
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Post Thu Oct 27, 2016 8:51 am

Re: 1971 1210 pickup

A goggle search for "Delco DN 10 wireing" will bring up a wiring diagram. For both alternators and generators there are only 2 regulators circuits. One regulated the field on the "ground side" of the field, that is to say the field is always connected to the "hot" output and the ground end is controlled by the regulator. The other way is to have one end of the field connected to ground and the regulator controls the "hot" side.
Every mfg has a different set-up but they are all one of these two types.
Does the truck in question have a "charge light" or an ammeter (or both)? It will effect how the wiring is done.
The simiplest regulator requires only a "hot" a "field" and a "ground" connection to control an Alternator. You can even use a generator regulator to control an alternator (but not the other way around)
The Delco DN 10 regulator also has a relay in it. The relay can be used to switch the regulator on and provide field current, but is not required. When used with a "charge light" the A/C voltage (well to be more correct 1/2 wave DC current) is used to close the field relay and turn on the field current when the alternator is spinning fast enough. Before that happens the current in the field comes through the charge light (lighting it) and provides a weak field current to "get things started". If the truck doesn't use a charge light, the field may still be controlled by the field relay, but it is not required to do so. Useing the field relay allows for a connection to the system voltage that doesn't go thru the ign switch and related wireing, so less chance of a voltage drop effecting the voltage the regulator "sees" and uses to set system voltage.
In the simplest form all you need to control a DN 10 is a swtiched ign feed to the regulator, (so the field will not stay energized with the key off) a wire to the field connection on the alternator from the regulator and a good ground. The early Chry regulator works exactly like that, and has only those 3 connections.
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