OldIHC

Archive for the ‘Engine’ Category

GRD-214 Bell Housing Removal

There are two line up pins between the motor block and the bell housing where they meet.One is just below the starter and the other on the passenger side.

You only have to drive them out of either the motor block or the bell housing to do your separation. the passenger side pin hit the flywheel before it cleared the engine block.  I used a hacksaw to cut about 1/8 inch off the pin to free the bell housing.

The bell housing will then lift straight up. The reason you have to go up is that there is a flange that forms part of the bell housing yet slides down in front of the fly wheel from the top.

Watch when you put these alignment pins back into the cast ears as so close to the edge of the flanges, which are easily broken.

SLM70-39 September 14, 1970
Following is a list of features incorporated in the V-304A engine used in the light-duty truck models listed above.
1. PISTON:
A cast aluminum piston less the top ring groove insert. This type of piston is typical of all competitive light truck engines. The elimination of the top ring groove insert in the piston reduces the piston head temperatures by approximately 50 degrees.
2. CRANKSHAFT AND BEARINGS:
The new crankshaft is quenched and tempered in lieu of the present version V-304 crankshaft which has induction hardened bearing surfaces. The bearing material used in the new light-duty truck engine is of copper, lead, or aluminum alloy. This material is considered a premium bearing in the light-duty truck engine.
3. VALVES:
The intake valve material is of aluminized steel. It is a standard material normally used in light-duty truck engines. A new type exhaust valve slow rotating device typically used in light-duty truck engines will be incorporated in the V-304A cylinder head. Exhaust valve seats are machined directly into the cylinder head. The elimination of valve seat inserts reduces the valve head temperature by 100 degrees and thus eliminates the need for stellite facing, permitting the use of austenitic steel which is a reliable truck exhaust valve material. The exhaust valve positive rotators cannot be used with the light-duty truck V-304A engine cylinder head, because the valves with positive rotators will grind away the head seats without inserts very rapidly. The seat width on the exhaust valves for the V-304A engine is 3/32"-1/8" instead of 5/64"-7/64". All other engine specifications for the V-304A are the same as the V-304 engine. The light-duty truck engine will be identified by "V-304A" stamped on the serial number pad.
The V-304A engine will be serviced with the present V-304 engine components, including single pistons or inserts, now in the service parts system, except the exhaust valve positive rotators which are replaced by a washer, IH No. 391 928 C1, and spacer, IH No. 391 932 C1, known as the slow rotating device. On the V-304A engine cylinder head where exhaust valve seats are worn beyond reconditioning, it should be noted there is sufficient material at this area to cut a counter-bore and install a service V-304 exhaust valve insert.

Engine specifications for the IHC BD and BG engine series.

Remember, the distributor turns counter-clockwise….

GRD Engine specifications, plugs, etc..

Engine specifications for the IHC SV line of engines.

Notes gleaned from several sources on OldIHC.org

From Howard Pletcher: The following AMC engines were used in the IHC Light Line.
6-232 in Scout 800 and Light Line-1968-1971
6-258 in Scout II and Light Line–1971 thru 1974
V-400 in Light Line–4/1973 with some carried into the 74 models, I believe.

Its fairly easy to find the id stamp on the IH sixes. Its stamped into a flat surface at the right front corner of the block just below the head and exhaust manifold. Might take a little work with a wire brush and a trouble light to see it but I have it on all of mine. Originally posted by Ralph Goff and edited by Jim Hadfield.

For a picture of the SD-220 click here. The engine info is also listed on the id plate on the drivers door too. It’ll have an engine number there and you can see if its the same as the number stamped on the engine. The above would apply to the SD and BD engines. The GRD-214 and 233, along with the RD-372, 406, 450 and 501 are on the driver’s side of the block, just below the head. The BLD series engines have a cast insignia on the left rear side behind the oil filter housing. The engine number “BLD xxxx” is stamped on a raised boss on the left front side of the block. Please let me know the id method for the other engines too.

This is the bore and stroke on both engines in 1955
SD 220   3 9/16 bore x 3  11/16 stroke      7.0 comp ratio   108 HP @ 3800 RPM
SD 240   3 9/16 bore x 4.018     stroke      7.0 comp ratio   131 HP @ 3800 RPM
BD 220   3 9/16 bore x 3/16      stroke      7.5 comp ratio   112 HP @ 3800 RPM
BD 240   3 9/16 bore x 4.018    stroke      7.5 comp. ratio  141 HP @ 3800 RPM
The BD was an updated version of the SD as far as I can read about it they changed the rocker arm shaft and oiling in the head also.

View/download photo at: http://home.earthlink.net/~rpbp87/tdc_indicator.jpg

I used an old distributor cap to make a TDC indicator for adjusting valves. Now it’s a snap to quickly and easily locate TDC for each cylinder when you perform this task. (Important, as you know, to get the adjustments done while the engine is still hot!)

1. Take an old distributor cap for your vehicle and carefully cut the top half off. I first marked the cut by wrapping masking tape around the outside diameter of the cap, then used a hacksaw to carefully cut along the edge of the tape. Discard the TOP half of the cap.

2. Using the BOTTOM half of the cap, take a Q-Tip and some white paint and make “dots” along the top of the cut where each of the 4, 6, or 8 terminals “used to be”. I used Kilz as it dries quickly and sticks to just about anything.

3. As a final production step, pull out your shop manual and determine the firing order and rotational direction of your distributor. Take a Sharpie or other brand of fine-tip permanent marker and number the “white dots” you made in #2 according to the correct starting position 1 and firing sequence. Now you’re done.

When it comes time to adjust your valves, pop off your existing distributor cap and set your new “TDC indicator” in place. It’s a simple matter to bump the starter until the rotor lines up perfectly with each cylinder’s firing position / TDC mark.