OldIHC

Archive for the ‘FAQ’ Category

Switches and Knobs on the L, R and S series vehicles may be removed by pulling back on the retaining tab located inside the hole on the bottom of the knob. Illustration below for reference:

From the “Triple Diamond Treatise” column by B. Mitchell Carlson on page 28 of the January/February 2010 edition (Vol 17-No. 6) of Vintage Truck Magazine:

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A LINE SETTING TICKET represents the “build sheet” for your truck. It is the final word on how a truck was made and where it was shipped to when new.  Until a couple of years ago, Navistar would reproduce a copy of an original line setting ticket for post-war trucks. The company no longer performs this service and instead has donated more than 3,000 reels of microfilm containing the ticket information to the Wisconsin Historical Society’s McCormick/International Harvester Corp. Archives. The society has organized the material, which is now available to the public.

Similarly to Navistar’s process, the Wisconsin Historical Society will look up a serial number from the cataloged list and make a photocopy of the information on the microfilm. Copies are available for $20 for each serial number. The cost is comparable to what International dealers had been charging at an earlier time. When dealers were the source of this information, they charged whatever they felt appropriate, and the cost ranged from $15 to $45. Some didn’t want to bother with the process at all.

Currently, the line setting tickets are available only by mail order—not from the historical society’s website. Requests are processed as quickly as possible, but the organization is involved with a number or projects with a limited amount of staff, so you should allow extra time for the service. Requests can be made in person, but only staff members are allowed to handle the fragile original films.

The microfilm information covers the post-war era, generally starting with the R-series, but there are a few gaps until the late ’50s at which time it appears that all U.S. production is available through the early’80s. To order a line setting ticket, contact the archives at:

Wisconsin Historical Society
McCormick/IHC Archives
816 State Street
Madison, WI 53706-1482

As an alternative, and I do not know their source (for all I know they too go to the International Archives…) – Binder Books offers Line Setting Tickets for $19.95 through their web site as well.

John (Jupes) Hansen
May 23, 2010

1949 to 1964	1965 to 1970	1970 to 1980	1980 – On
NUMERIC		ALPHA NUMERIC	EUROMETRIC	P-METRIC	EUROMETRIC or P-METRIC
"90" to "80"-Series		78 to 50-Series	"82"-Series	80-, 75-series	70-series	65-series	60-series	50-series
?	?	?	145R10	?	165/70R10	?	?	?
?	?	?	145R12	P145/80R12	165/70R12	?	?	?
?	6.00-12	?	155R12	P155/80R12	?	?	?	?
?	?	?	?	?	?	165/65R13	?	?
?	?	?	145R13	?	?	?	?	?
?	?	?	155R13	P155/80R13	175/70R13	?	195/60R13	215/50R13
5.60-13	6.00-13	A	165R13	P165/80R13	185/70R13	?	205/60R13	?
?	6.50-13	B	175R13	P175/80R13	?	?	?	?
?	?	C	?	P185/80R13	?	?	?	?
?	7.00-13	D	185R13	?	?	?	?	?
?	?	?	195R13	?	?	?	?	?
?	?	?	?	?	?	175/65R14	?	?
6.00-14	6.45-14	?	155R14	?	175/70R14	185/65R14	?	?
?	?	B	165R14	P175/75R14	185/70R14	195/65R14	205/60R14	?
6.50-14	6.95-14	C	175R14	P185/75R14	195/70R14	?	215/60R14	?
?	?	D	?	?	?	?	?	?
7.00-14	7.35-14	E	185R14	P195/75R14	205/70R14	?	225/60R14	245/50R14
7.50-14	7.75-14	F	195R14	P205/75R14	215/70R14	?	235/60R14	?
8.00-14	8.25-14	G	205R14	P215/75R14	225/70R14	?	245/60R14	265/50R14
8.50-14	8.55-14	H	215R14	P225/75R14	?	?	?	?
9.00-14	?	J	225R14	?	?	?	?	?
9.50-14	?	L	?	?	?	?	?	?
?	5.60-15	A	155R15	P155/80R15	?	185/65R15	195/60R15	?
6.00-15	?	B	165R15	P165/80R15	185/70R15	195/65R15	205/60R15	225/50R15
6.50-15	6.85-15	C	175R15	?	195/70R15	205/65R15	215/60R15	?
?	?	D	?	?	?	?	?	?
?	7.35-15	E	185R15	P195/75R15	205/70R15	215/65R15	225/60R15	?
6.70-15	7.75-15	F	195R15	P205/75R15	215/70R15	?	235/60R15	?
?	8.15-15	?	?	?	?	?	?	?
7.10-15	?	G	205R15	P215/75R15	225/70R15	235/65R15	245/60R15	265/50R15
?	8.25-15	?	?	?	?	?	?	?
?	8.45-15	?	?	?	?	?	?	?
7.60-15	?	H	215R15	P225/75R15	235/70R15	?	255/60R15	275/50R15
?	8.55-15	?	?	?	?	?	?	?
8.00-15	8.85-15	J	225R15	P225/75R15	235/70R15	?	265/60R15	?
8.20-15	9.00-15	K	?	?	?	?	?	?
?	9.15-15	L	235R15	P235/75R15	255/70R15	?	275/60R15	295/50R15
?	?	N	?	?	?	?	?	305/50R15
? Listing in chart does not imply complete interchangeability.			?	? When changing tire sizes, dimensional clearances must be checked.

International Spring Bushing Replacement by Dan Nees, Dennis Petterson and Ray Cass A big problem with Scouts in particular, and Internationals in general, is their spring bushings deteriorate. When this happens the trucks really wander and steering becomes very erratic. The way to fix this, is to replace the rubber with Polyurethane bushings. There are a couple of different styles and brands of bushings. The two main brands are, Energy Suspention, and Prothane. Another brand makes a re-greasable bushing for the shackle end of the truck as well, but; their name eludes me. Either brands work fine, and the greasable ones, while I haven”t used them, sound intriguing. You can purchase these items from any Light Line Dealer, such as Super Scout Specialist and the greasable shackle bushings can be bought. The tools required are rather basic for the simple mechanic. More advanced tools make for an easier job, but are not required. Basic Tools: Hacksaw Hammer Chisel Electric Drill with alot of small drill bits. 5/8″, 11/16″ and 3/4″ socket and wrenches PB BLaster, or similar penetrating fluid Jack and Jack Stands Jug Wrench Advanced Tools Sawszall Impact Chisel Impact Gun Oxy-Acetylene Torch or Propane Step 1. Jack up one end of vehicle and support securely with jack stands. Remove the wheels. Step 2. Unbolt the Sway Bar if you are doing the front axle. This requires 2 3/4″ wrenches and alot of strength as these bolts are usually tight. Step 3. Unbolt one side of the axle, shackle and frame side bushings, using the 5/8 and 11/16 wrenches and lots of PBLaster. You may find that some of the bolts will be frozen to the inner sleeve of the bushings. If this happens on the frame side bushing it will require torching, or cutting to get the eye out of the frame box. If it is on the axle side you can always get at least one shackle side off so you can work on the bushing. Step 4. Using an electric drill and a small drill bit, like 1/8″ – 1/4″, and drill the rubber out around the inner sleave. Alternately, with a propane torch burn the rubber out, or with an oxy-acetylen torch burn the inner sleave out. (WARNING) If you use propane or a torch, be sure you do not have any fuel leaks, or are near a fuel line. (WARNING) If you use an oxy-act, the inner sleave can get so hot that the rubber can “SHOOT” the sleave out of the eye. Do not sit facing the eye. With the rubber cut, or burned out, you can now push the inner sleave out of the eye. After letting the rubber cool a little, push that out as well. Step 5. Now, take a hacksaw and thread the blade through the eye. Make 2 cuts about a 1/4″ apart. You do not need to cut all the way through the outer sleave, but you should remove enough material that the sleave will tear out. If you have a sawzall you can use that to cut the outer sleeve. Using a small cold chisel, use the chisel to roll the small cut piece’s edge up and follow it all the way into the eye. With that piece cut out the rest of the sleave will collape in and can be pushed out. Step 6. When installing the new bushings, apply the silicon grease supplied liberally to the outside, inside, and inside the steel sleave of the bushings. If you really want to do it right buy K2 silicon grease from NAPA and really slop the bushings up and install them in the now empty eye. Step 7. When replacing the spring you MUST replace the old bolts with new Grade 8 bolts. You can go to a hardware store and buy 12 7/16″ bolts, or you could buy an entire bolt kit, including new shock bolts, from East Coast Scout Parts for $32 plus shipping. This kit contains the 12 Grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers and are zinc plated. It is also cheaper than buying individual bolts from a hardware store. Step 8. When tightening the bolts upon re-installation, do not tighten more than 20 or so ft-lbs. The rubber bushings that were stock called for a high torque factor, like 60 ft-lbs, the urethane will not flex properly with a high torque value. Hand tight is sufficient. You will have to wait till both sides of the front axle are done to re-install the front sway bar. Step 9. Re-install the wheels and move on to the next axle. Another way to do this job would be to remove the entire spring out from under the axle by removing the u-bolt. This would allow you to work on the spring out in the open. However, if you remove the u-bolts you MUST replace them with new bolts. The 3 corners are 3″ diameter 1/2″ thread u-bolts with the passenger side front corner being 3 1/2″ diameter 1/2″ u-bolts. These will have to be custom made as you cannot buy them this size in the store. Call your local spring shop and ask of they can make you u-bolts. What you want is a 3 1/2″ diameter bent on a 18″ over all length, end to end, rod. No matter how tempting it may be to re-use the old u-bolt DO NOT. They are vital for holding your truck together and the price of buying new bolts, about $60 for all 4 springs, is cheap insurance.

Max Torque (foot-pounds) for clean, dry threads

Bolt size – Thread pitch	Grade 2	Grade5	Grade 8	Special Alloy
1/4-20	6	10	12	14
1/4-28	7	12	15	17
5/16-18	13	20	24	29
5/16-24	14	22	27	35
3/8-16	23	36	44	58
3/8-24	26	40	48	69
7/16-14	37	52	63	98
7/16-20	41	57	70	110
1/2-13	57	80	98	145
1/2-20	64	90	110	160
9/16-12	82	120	145	200
9/16-18	91	135	165	220
5/8-11	111	165	210	280
5/8-18	128	200	245	310
3/4-10	200	285	335	490
3/4-16	223	315	370	530
7/8-9	315	430	500	760
7/8-14	340	470	550	800
1-8	400	650	760	1130
1-14	460	710	835	1210

Torque specs for GRD 214
1/3/02 7:00:42 AM PST From: alfg@sk.sympatico.ca (Ralph Goff)
I have a Chiltons Scout manual and they give a general guide for torque values for the various different sizes and grades of bolts and studs. Now I am assuming the KB has 3/8 studs in the manifold like my S has. The Scout guide recommends 18 to 20 foot pounds for grade 1 or 2 studs. For the higher grade 5 studs they recommend 31 to 35 pounds. If by chance you have grade 6 or 7 studs then the torque settings are 34 ft. lbs. These settings are for clean dry threads. If oil is used on the threads they advise to reduce the settings by 10%. Ralph in Sask.

‘, 513, ”),

‘The following data is taken from a Buss Fuse brochure dated April, 1952

Air Circulating Fan, ”50 to ”52, SFE 20
Headlight, ”35 to ”41, SFE-20 or AGC-10
………..”42, SFE-30
………..”47 to ”49 KB1-M and KB3-M SFE-30
Heater, ”50 to ”52, SFE-20
Horn, ”39 to ”41, AGC-10
……”42 to ”49, SFE-30 or SFE-20
Miscellaneous Circuit, ”39 to ”41 SFE-20
Windshield Wiper, ”47 to ”49, SFE-20

Periods of inactivity can be extremely harmful to lead acid batteries. When placing a battery into storage, follow the recommendations below to insure that the battery remains healthy and ready for use.

NOTE: Storing, charging or operating batteries on concrete is perfectly OK. The most important things to avoid: Freezing. Avoid locations where freezing temperature is expected. Keeping battery at a high state of charge will also prevent freezing. Freezing results in irreparable damage to battery’s plates and container. [Freezing can happen between -19 F (40% charge) and -98 F (fully charged)]

Heat. Avoid direct exposure to heat sources, such as radiators or space heaters. Temperatures above 80? F accelerate the battery’s self-discharge characteristics. Step by step storage procedure: 1. Completely charge the battery before storing. 2. Store the battery in a cool, dry location, protected from the elements. 3. During storage, monitor the specific gravity (flooded) or voltage. Batteries in storage should be given a boost charge when they show a 70% charge or less. Completely charge the battery before re-activating.

For optimum performance, equalize the batteries (flooded) before putting them back into service. Refer to the Equalizing section for this procedure.

Q: Will a battery rapidly self discharge if placed on concrete?
A: No, placing a battery on concrete will not cause it to discharge any faster than any other surface.
Q: Can I store a battery indefinitely?
A: No, a battery will self-discharge slowly over time. Allowing a battery to sit in a discharged state will ultimately lead to severe positive grid corrosion and battery failure. An unused battery should never be allowed to sit over 6 months without a recharge.

VX-6 AUTOMOTIVE BATTERY ADDITIVE
No more ?dead batteries?
The biggest selling battery additive in America!
Can also be used on boats and motorcycles!

No matter how new or old your battery may be, it produces sulfation constantly?even when not in use. Sulfation (lead sulfate) is a regular chemical reaction that starts as a soft, spongy, greenish-white substance which later hardens. Often it can be seen on the outside of the battery around cable connections. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure and is the reason that 7 out of 10 batteries are thrown away ?dead??while they are still full of life, but checked for a free-flow outlet of energy. Battery additive dissolves sulfation in old batteries and prevents it from forming in both old and new batteries. That?s why even brand new batteries have added life when protected with VX-6. Note: Will not correct a shorted battery due to a physical condition caused by freezing or overcharging! VX-6 in your battery improves starts in any weather, in any temperature from -40? to +160? F. One package is sufficient for one 6- or 11-volt battery. Net wt. 3 fl. oz.

Axle Shift Only

To Downshift: Keep the accelerator down. Select slower ratio position. Release and depress accelerator pedal as quickly as possible or disengage and re-engage clutch as quickly as possible.
Note: Clutch method recommended for slower speeds.

To Up-shift: Keep accelerator down. Select a faster ratio position. Release accelerator pedal and pause until axle shifts.
Note: For smoother axle up-shifts at slow speeds declutch also.
Note: In all axle up-shifts, move the control switch to position first. When split shifting to a slower axle ratio, DO NOT move the control switch until just move the control switch until just before engaging the clutch.

Lockout Mechanism – Tandem Axles Only
1. Engage Lockout in low axle ratio only. 2. Engage lockout at slow speeds but never when wheels are spinning. 3. Axles should not be shifted with the lockout engaged. SPLIT SHIFTING Combined Axle and Transmission Shift

To Downshift the axle to a slower ratio and up-shift or downshift the transmission and just before clutch is re-engaged move the control switch to a slower ratio shift the transmission position.

To Up-shift the axle and downshift or up-shift the transmission move the control switch to a faster ratio position and make the transmission shift in the usual manner.

Gear Ratios for the T- series transmissions.

T-34–6.21, 3.43, 1.81, 1.00, and .823, later T-434 (1970), then T-494 (about 1974)
T-35–7.17, 3.96, 2.36, 1.41, and 1.00, later T-435, then T-495
T-36–6.21, 3.43, 2.05, 1.225, and 1.00, later T-436, then T-496

International Truck 1957-59 Fordomatic
International Truck — Automatic Drive (DG 3 Band) (1950-66)

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Fordomatic, Mercomatic, Flashomatic, FMX (Cast Iron) (1951-81) Let the games begin.
In 1951 Ford entered the automatic arms race with the Fordomatic transmission. This was one of the most versatile family of transmissions to ever hit the market. Beginning with the small case unit in 1951, this model mutated through the medium case unit (1955), the Flashomatic Borg Warner 8 unit (1957), the large case unit (1958), the Borg Warner 12 unit (1967) and FMX unit (1968) and survived all the way to 1981 when the FMX was discontinued.
This series of transmission was used by Ford, Ford Truck, Lincoln, Mercury, Rambler, Nash, Hudson, Dodge Truck, International Truck, Studebaker, Willy’s and Jaguar. This unit also found its way into airport tugs, fork lifts and various other industrial equipment.

The easiest way to determine which version you have is to measure the length of the main case. The small case units are 9 7/8" long, medium case units are 10 1/4" long, large case units to 1960 are 10 7/8" long and large case PCA units from 1961-65 are 11 1/2" long.
Another way to determine which unit you have is by the code on the tag on the driver’s side of the transmission. The code you are looking for will begin with either a 1 or a P. The early units to 1960 had no vacuum modulator.

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Automatic Drive (DG 3 Band) (1950-66)
Also hitting the market in 1950 was the Automatic Drive. This unit was used by Jaguar, Studebaker, Hudson, Divco, Dodge Truck, International Truck, Twin Coach and for one year, Mercedes.

This cast iron unit was unique in the fact that it used three bands for operation. The oil pan was small (about 9" x 10") and held up by 10 bolts.