Archive for the ‘Chassis’ Category
Spring Bushing Replacement
| International Spring Bushing Replacement by Dan Nees, Dennis Petterson and Ray Cass A big problem with Scouts in particular, and Internationals in general, is their spring bushings deteriorate. When this happens the trucks really wander and steering becomes very erratic.The way to fix this, is to replace the rubber with Polyurethane bushings. There are a couple of different styles and brands of bushings. The two main brands are, Energy Suspention, and Prothane. Another brand makes a re-greasable bushing for the shackle end of the truck as well, but; their name eludes me. Either brands work fine, and the greasable ones, while I haven”t used them, sound intriguing. You can purchase these items from any Light Line Dealer, such as Super Scout Specialist and the greasable shackle bushings can be bought. The tools required are rather basic for the simple mechanic. More advanced tools make for an easier job, but are not required. Advanced Tools Step 1. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4. Step 5. Step 6. Step 7. Step 8. Step 9. Another way to do this job would be to remove the entire spring out from under the axle by removing the u-bolt. This would allow you to work on the spring out in the open. However, if you remove the u-bolts you MUST replace them with new bolts. The 3 corners are 3″ diameter 1/2″ thread u-bolts with the passenger side front corner being 3 1/2″ diameter 1/2″ u-bolts. These will have to be custom made as you cannot buy them this size in the store. Call your local spring shop and ask of they can make you u-bolts. What you want is a 3 1/2″ diameter bent on a 18″ over all length, end to end, rod. No matter how tempting it may be to re-use the old u-bolt DO NOT. They are vital for holding your truck together and the price of buying new bolts, about $60 for all 4 springs, is cheap insurance. |
Bolt Torque
Max Torque (foot-pounds) for clean, dry threads
| Bolt size – Thread pitch | Grade 2 | Grade5 | Grade 8 | Special Alloy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1/4-20 | 6 | 10 | 12 | 14 |
| 1/4-28 | 7 | 12 | 15 | 17 |
| 5/16-18 | 13 | 20 | 24 | 29 |
| 5/16-24 | 14 | 22 | 27 | 35 |
| 3/8-16 | 23 | 36 | 44 | 58 |
| 3/8-24 | 26 | 40 | 48 | 69 |
| 7/16-14 | 37 | 52 | 63 | 98 |
| 7/16-20 | 41 | 57 | 70 | 110 |
| 1/2-13 | 57 | 80 | 98 | 145 |
| 1/2-20 | 64 | 90 | 110 | 160 |
| 9/16-12 | 82 | 120 | 145 | 200 |
| 9/16-18 | 91 | 135 | 165 | 220 |
| 5/8-11 | 111 | 165 | 210 | 280 |
| 5/8-18 | 128 | 200 | 245 | 310 |
| 3/4-10 | 200 | 285 | 335 | 490 |
| 3/4-16 | 223 | 315 | 370 | 530 |
| 7/8-9 | 315 | 430 | 500 | 760 |
| 7/8-14 | 340 | 470 | 550 | 800 |
| 1-8 | 400 | 650 | 760 | 1130 |
| 1-14 | 460 | 710 | 835 | 1210 |
Torque specs for GRD 214
1/3/02 7:00:42 AM PST From: alfg@sk.sympatico.ca (Ralph Goff)
I have a Chiltons Scout manual and they give a general guide for torque values for the various different sizes and grades of bolts and studs. Now I am assuming the KB has 3/8 studs in the manifold like my S has. The Scout guide recommends 18 to 20 foot pounds for grade 1 or 2 studs. For the higher grade 5 studs they recommend 31 to 35 pounds. If by chance you have grade 6 or 7 studs then the torque settings are 34 ft. lbs. These settings are for clean dry threads. If oil is used on the threads they advise to reduce the settings by 10%. Ralph in Sask.
