OldIHC

Archive for the ‘FAQ’ Category

Compiled by J.P. Hansen from Posts at JeepForum.com

The YF carburetor has a mixture needle that travels up and down inside the main jet. The deeper this needle sits in the main jet the leaner the mixture. The height of the needle during driving is dependent upon the amount of vacuum in the engine and position of the throttle. So the more load on the engine, the richer the mixture. There are conditions, like WOT (wide open throttle) that the needle is pulled further out of the main jet further to force a rich mixture.

A lot of people think that the accelerator pump is just for shooting in a steam of gas during acceleration, but it actually controls the mixture of the carburetor as well. A small amount of vacuum is bled into the bottom side of the accelerator pump and this pulls the mixture needle down. If you had a bad vacuum leak or a plugged vacuum passage then the carb would think there is no vacuum and richen your mixture.

Two things are important:
1. Make sure the accelerator piston is fully pushed down before tightening the housing.
2. When adjusting the needle height, make sure your pushing down on the accelerator assembly again.

Turning the needle height screw one way or the other will richen or lean out the main fuel mixture.

Don’t get gasket sealant down inside the vacuum passages. A very thin coat of HT axle grease is recommended. If the surfaces are flat, that is all you will ever need. Most mating surfaces have a little bead going around the perimeter that helps with sealing the carb. Don’t file off this bead.

Remember having a no vacuum leaks is important for economy otherwise the YF will run rich all the time.

Also, remember there should be two balls or one ball and a loner counter weight. Some kits include what looks to be an extra float valve, but it is also used to replace the ball and counter weight. If using one of these, DO NOT use a ball to re-seat the accelerator check ‘ball’.

See 8 , 46 and 47

From the Jeep forum – I could not even get my YF adjusted with the Prestolight ignition system. When I switched over to an e-core and Duraspark ignition, it was easy to adjust and typically get 18-20 mpg out of the Jeep during the summer.

By J.P. Hansen
Originally published at Restoring Cornelia, July 12, 2010

The rebuild of a Carter YF carburetor is actually fairly straightforward. I have the manual available for you and have provided some photos from my own rebuild along with a few tips below. Also, there is a great section on the Carter YF carburetor within the Truck Service Manual itself, in the Fuel System section. Between the two, you have the service tear-down and all of the specifications you need to rebuild and tune your carburetor.

The Carter carburetor for an International Harvester Model R-112 Series is a Carter YF-735-S, or specifically a Carter YF Model 735A. The 735A is the number you will need when ordering a rebuild kit. I ordered my rebuild kit from The Carburetor Shop, LLC out of Eldon, Missouri. The rebuild kit number is 1574 and the cost was $65. It is a very complete kit and in discussions with personnel at the Carburetor Shop, they had ready answers and knew what they were talking about as you’ll see in a little bit.

You can click on any of the photos below to view a high-resolution version – I found the high-resolution photos VERY helpful when putting the carburetor back together!

The service manual is actually very complete and easy to follow. I recommend following it carefully during the teardown and grouping the parts as they suggest. In addition, I did the rough cleaning of my carburetor with some carb cleaner and a toothbrush, but that only removes the outside grime. The photo above shows the carb after the initial cleaning – not too bad at all, actually. However, the inside of the carb is still another story – as you can see from the next two photos. There was quite a bit of varnish and scum inside of this particular carburetor – it took a LOT of work to get it all out.

To get the parts REALLY clean, I recommend taking the additional step of purchasing and using an ultrasonic cleaner – I picked one up on sale at Harbor Freight Tools and it did an amazing job. I had to run some of the parts through 3 or 4 times, but it was still a LOT better than using tons of solvent and it cleaned the parts up beautifully.

One item that tripped me up a little during the rebuild, and might throw you off as well, is the fact that you might find some differences between your rebuild kit and your original carburetor parts. In my case, the needle and seat assembly were quite a bit different as you can see in the next photo.

I phoned the Carburetor Shop and spoke with them about it, and they reassured me that the new needle and seat assembly are an improvement over the old.

The needle and seat assembly are at the bottom of the photo. The original needle seat (on the right) has a long tube, whereas the new one does not. The fellas at the Carburetor Shop informed me that the new needle seat will provide better idling.

The next photo shows the throttle shaft arm assembly in detail – you will need to remove this in order to separate and later re-attach the main body of the carburetor from the air horn.

In the case of this photo (to the left), it has just been reattached.

Now everything is cleaned up, the jets have been cleaned and/or replaced according to what has been provided with the kit, and the accelerator pump assembly has been replaced and re-inserted. There is also a small note in the service manual to follow for setting your metering rod.

One of the most critical steps of a carburetor rebuild is setting the float height. To do this, you need to have replaced your needle and seat assembly and make sure everything works freely. In this case, with the new needle and seat assembly the float height was quite a bit different and needed a major adjustment to get it back to factory, which calls for a float level of 25/64″.

Here’s another tip – to set your float height to 25/64″, grab a drill bit of that diameter and lay it across your carburetor (make sure there is no gasket). You have yourself a handy float height adjuster.

I had to bend the center tab of the float just a little to get the float height adjusted, but it didn’t take much.

The rest of the photos are of the buttoned up carburetor, and the bottom four photos are of the installed carburetor and linkage – all complete!

 

 

 

Finally, these last two images are a little more information with respect to the accelerator check ball in the carburetor that may help some of you:

The following is reprinted in its entirety with no changes in text from B. Mitchell Carlson’s “Triple Diamond Treatise” as it appeared in the August 2011 issue of Vintage Truck Magazine.  He did a wonderful job of providing the history of the International Harvester logos as they developed through the years and I felt it would be well worth preserving that information here for enthusiasts.

The recent merger of the company I work for and the subsequent changes of corporate logos got me to think­ing about the history of the trademarks International has used on its trucks. Throughout the years, International Harvester used a number of different logos on the trucks it built, and they sometimes were vastly different from the cor­porate logo.

The following is a brief look at the corporate identifying marks used on International trucks. As a reminder, all of them are the copyrighted intellectual property of either Navistar or CNH and are shown solely as an illustrative historical reference.

After a merger of several companies that created International Harvester in 1902, the logo on the left was adopted as the core corporate logo. It had the letters “I” and “H” inside the letter “C,” and all three letters were capitalized and had serifs. The words “International” and “Harvester” were printed inside their respective letters.

Highwheeler production started in 1907, and this corporate logo was used on the model. Models that had a radiator, includ­ing the short-lived cars from 1910 and 1911, generally had a brass logo affixed to the middle of the radiator or had the emblem embossed on the front of the shell. By the ’30s, International Harvester was using a streamlined logo (right side) without the names spelled out.

In 1914, shortly before the Highwheelers were discontinued and the slope-nose trucks were introduced (1915), the company started a new trend for International truck logos. It was at this time that the word “International” was first used as the official name for trucks built by International Harvester Corp. Up to this point IHC, IHC Auto Buggy, or IHC Auto Wagons were the official nomenclatures for vehicles. This script was specifically designed for exclusive use on the trucks to differentiate the truck division from the rest of the corporation. However, after production of the slope-nose models ceased in the early ’20s, the script all but dis­appeared, and primarily block lettering in several fonts was used. Also, the corporate logo wasn’t entirely banished from trucks. The logo with “I” and “H” inside the “C” was embossed on some smaller parts, and it appeared intermittently in publications, such as sales brochures and manuals.

The first Triple Diamond logo that we’ve all come to know and love first appeared in 1923. Initially, only the S-series trucks bore this logo, but by the end of the decade, it was universally used. As time progressed, the relative size of the diamonds to the horizontal pointed banner reading “International” would grow and shrink as the angles of the points on the banner became progressively more blunt. In varying degrees, it was used until the late ’40s. For example, the original owner’s manual for my 1947 KB-1 carries this early logo on the back cover.

First conceived in 1938, the stylized Triple Diamond logo actually went into use with the introduction of the K-series trucks in late 1940. At this time, both early and later styles of the Triple Diamond logo were used, seemingly interchangeably. However, the stylized logo was used for fixed trim on the trucks, such as the grille bar and horn button, while the earlier logo was found on hubcaps and in documents. By the time the L-series was introduced, the stylized image above had become the fully standardized truck logo. It was put to rest with the introduction of the R-series trucks in 1953.

This logo is significant because it is the first one in which the Triple Diamond image had a specific color scheme—blue center diamond, white outer diamonds, and black lettering on a banner with a white background. This color combination was also used on the earlier Triple Diamond logo, but it appeared along with several other combinations with no less than four solid colors on the center diamond.

Part of the reason that the multiple Triple Diamond logos continued into the ’50s was that in 1945 International Harvester adopted the now famous “man on tractor” logo. The company didn’t have to search too far for an inspiration for the design, which is essentially a simplified version of the original corporate logo. The new logo superimposes a large lowercase “i” on a large upper case “H” in block letters and eliminates the “C.” Initially intended for corporate use and for the agricultural division, the logo had limited use in the truck division. Almost exclusively this logo was used when referring to the overall corporation, such as on the back of a sales brochure if it referred to International Harvester Corp. In those instances the wording likely was followed by a small version of the “man on tractor.” With the introduction of the L-series, this generally continued to be the case, although the “man on tractor” logo started appearing more often and larger in truck publications. Still, the stylized Triple Diamond was on the hood badge and steering wheel horn button.

With the introduction of the R-series trucks, the “man on tractor” logo appeared tall and proud everywhere. Part and parcel was an about-face change in the corporate mindset immediately following World War II. At this time, the thrust was a unified corporate image—from tractors to trucks to home appliances—while still having the six separate corporate divisions. During the ’50s, all International Harvester consumer products carried this logo.

The “man on tractor” in its basic form lasted until the end of International Harvester in 1986 and even beyond. The only official redo of it by International Harvester occurred in 1973. Essentially the new logo was a slightly stylized version of the 1945 basic design. The modern design was more compact with the lower left and upper right comers on the center bar of the “H” curving instead of forming a 90-degree angle to make the logo look more dynamic and less blocky and simplistic.

Similar to the variations on the Triple Diamond theme, both styles saw some concurrent usage; however, the conversion was almost universal to the 1973 edition in a shorter timeframe.

When Tenneco bought International’s agricultural line in 1984, part of the purchase was the rights to both versions of the “man on tractor” logo. Case-IH (and subsequently CNH) continued to use the logos, more often than not leaning forward.

With the rebirth of International as Navistar in 1986, the reorganized company gave a nod to its past. Not only did it go back to separate logos for the corporation and the International truck line, but the truck logo also saw the return of the diamond motif. In 2002, this was further changed—and more retro—with the adoption of the current International logo that enhances the diamond theme and reintroduces the International banner design dating back to 1938.

The emblem is plastic and is painted read with the triple diamond logo inside it. All chrome you see (aside from actual chrome holder) is paint.

Above image courtesy of Harry51.

Switches and Knobs on the L, R and S series vehicles may be removed by pulling back on the retaining tab located inside the hole on the bottom of the knob. Illustration below for reference:

Another diagram for clarity… The series round knobs my better fit to this:

From the “Triple Diamond Treatise” column by B. Mitchell Carlson on page 28 of the January/February 2010 edition (Vol 17-No. 6) of Vintage Truck Magazine:

A LINE SETTING TICKET represents the “build sheet” for your truck. It is the final word on how a truck was made and where it was shipped to when new.  Until a couple of years ago, Navistar would reproduce a copy of an original line setting ticket for post-war trucks. The company no longer performs this service and instead has donated more than 3,000 reels of microfilm containing the ticket information to the Wisconsin Historical Society’s McCormick/International Harvester Corp. Archives. The society has organized the material, which is now available to the public.

Similarly to Navistar’s process, the Wisconsin Historical Society will look up a serial number from the cataloged list and make a photocopy of the information on the microfilm. Copies are available for $20 for each serial number. The cost is comparable to what International dealers had been charging at an earlier time. When dealers were the source of this information, they charged whatever they felt appropriate, and the cost ranged from $15 to $45. Some didn’t want to bother with the process at all.

Currently, the line setting tickets are available only by mail order—not from the historical society’s website. Requests are processed as quickly as possible, but the organization is involved with a number or projects with a limited amount of staff, so you should allow extra time for the service. Requests can be made in person, but only staff members are allowed to handle the fragile original films.

The microfilm information covers the post-war era, generally starting with the R-series, but there are a few gaps until the late ’50s at which time it appears that all U.S. production is available through the early’80s. To order a line setting ticket, contact the archives at:

Wisconsin Historical Society
McCormick/IHC Archives
816 State Street
Madison, WI 53706-1482

As an alternative, and I do not know their source (for all I know they too go to the International Archives)  Binder Books offers Line Setting Tickets for $19.95 through their web site as well.

John (Jupes) Hansen
May 23, 2010

It has long been my desire to get a single listing of various IH light line model numbers and what they mean published, so here it is.
With a little (lot) help from our friends: Howard Pletcher, Bennett Moe, and Crismon’s.
And a little note about Crismon’s book. Even though it was taken out of print, a few years or so ago, there is a newer version available again.  Please check with http://binderbooks.com
This listing is under constant updating, so please bear with us.
The letter identified the model year or years of a particular version, the number the size of the truck.

11/23/2010
Note:  In the “Standard Catalog of Light-Duty Trucks” on Page 493, there are notes that there sub-model numbers for some of the K- series trucks. (K-2L, K2-H, etc.)  This has been verified as not being correct.  The weights as shown in the book should also be verified with IH Literature.

The High Wheelers…
Auto Buggy, 1906-1911
Auto Wagon A, 1909-1912
Auto Wagon B, 1909-1910
Auto Wagon AA, 1912-1916
Auto Wagon AW, 1912-1915
Auto Wagon AAX, 1912-1916
Auto Wagon AWX, 1912-1914
Auto Wagon MA, 1912-1916
Auto Wagon MW, 1912-1916
Auto Wagon MAX, 1912-1916
Auto Wagon MWX, 1912-1916
Auto Wagon E, 1915-1916
Auto Wagon EX, 1915-1916
F, 1915-1923, 1 ton
H, 1916-1923, 3/4 ton
K, 1916-1923 , 1-1/2 ton
G, 1917-1923, 2 ton
L, 1920-1923, 3-1/2 ton
S, 1921-1926, 2 ton
21, 1921-1923, 3/4 ton
31, 1921-1923, 1 ton
41, 1921-1923, 1-1/2 ton
61, 1921-1923, 2 ton
101, 1922-1923, 3-1/2 ton
Speed Sedan, 1923-
Special Delivery, 1921-1924, 2 ton
SD, 1924-1927, 2 ton
SL, 1924-1924, 2 ton
33, 1924- , 1-1/2 ton
43, 1924- , 2 ton
63, 1924- , 3 ton
94, 1924- , 4-1/2 ton
103, 1924- , 5 ton
Salesman’s Coupe, 1927-
54, 1927- , 2-1/2 ton
74, 1927- , 3-1/2 ton
SL-34, 1927- , 1-1/2 ton
SL-36, 1927- , 1-1/2 ton

Note: on the K and KB series trucks, if your data plate shows KS or KBS the S indicates a two speed rear axle.
K-1, 1941-46, 1/2 ton
K-2, 1941-46, 3/4 ton
K-3, 1941-46, 1 ton
K-4, 1941-46, 1-1/2 ton
K-5, 1941-46, 2 ton
K-6, 1941-46, 3 ton
KB-1, 1947-1949, 1/2 ton
KB-2, 1947-1949, 3/4 ton

---

KB-3, 1947-1949, 1 ton,

 

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KB-5, 1947-1949, 1-1/2 to 2 ton,

 

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KB-6, 1947-1949, 3 ton
L-110, 1949-53, 1/2 ton, 4,200# GVW
L-111, 1949-52, 1/2 ton, 4,800# GVW
L-112, 1949-52, 1/2 ton, 5,400# GVW
L-120, 1949-52, 3/4 ton, 5,300# GVW
L-122, 1951-52, 3/4 ton, 6,500# GVW
L-130, 1949-52, 1 ton
L-132, 1949-52
LB-140, 1950-52, 1-1/4 ton, 9,000# GVW
L-150, 1949-52, 1-1/2 ton
L-160, 1952-52, 2 ton, 14,000# GVW
L-161, 1952-52, 2 ton, 15,000# GVW
L-162, 1952-52, 2 ton, 16,000# GVW
L-163, 1952-52, School bus
L-164, 1952-52, 2 ton, 17,000# GVW
L-165, 1952-52, 2 ton, 16,000# GVW, road tractor
L-166, 1952-52, fire truck
R-100, 1954-55, 1/2 ton, short box, step side
R-110, 1953-55, 1/2 ton, long box, step side
R-112, 1953-55
R-120, 1953-55, 3/4 ton
R-130, 1953-55, 1 ton
R-132, 1953-55
R-140, 1953-55, 1-1/4 ton
R-150, 1953-55, 1-1/2 ton
R-151, 1954-55, 1-1/2 ton, 10,750# GVW
R-153, 1954-55, school bus
R-154,
R-160, 1953-55, 2 ton, 14,000# GVW
R-161, 1953-55, 2 ton, 15,000# GVW
R-162, 1953-55, 2 ton, 16,000# GVW
R-163, 1953-55, School bus
R-164, 1953-55, 2 ton, 17,000# GVW
R-165, 1953-55, 2 ton, 16,000# GVW, road tractor
R-166, 1953-55, fire truck
S-100, 1955-56, 1/2 ton, short box, step side
S-110, 1955-56, 1/2 ton, long box,. step side
S-112, 1955-56
S-120, 1955-56, 3/4 ton
S-130, 1955-56, 1 ton
S-140, 1955-56, 1-1/4 ton
S-150, 1955-56, 1-1/2 ton
S-160, 1955-56, 2 ton, 14,000# GVW
S-161, 1955-56, 2 ton, 15,000# GVW
S-162, 1955-56, 2 ton, 16,000# GVW
S-163, 1955-56, School bus
S-164, 1955-56, 2 ton, 17,000# GVW
S-165, 1955-56, 2 ton, 16,000# GVW, road tractor
S-166, 1955-56, fire truck

 

After going through most of the letters from A to S between 1930 and 1956, the series started over with A for the 1957 Golden Anniversary
models and went as follows until the end:
A-100, 1957, 1/2 ton, Golden Jubilee Edition
A-110, 1957-58, 1/2 ton
A-120, 1957-58, 3/4 ton
A-130, 1957-58, 1 ton
A-140, 1957-58, 1-1/4 ton
A-150, 1957-58, 1-1/2 ton
B-110, 1959-60
C-110–1961-62
C-1000–1963-64
D-1000–1965
1000A–1966
1000B-1967
1000C-1968
1000D-1969-70
1010-1971-73
100-1974-75

When IFS was introduced in 1961, it was designated a 100 model to distinguish it from the 110 model to distinguish it from the 110 model
with the I-Beam axle rather than being intended as a light and heavy model situation.  Early IFS’s did have a  slightly lighter rating so
the 100 was lighter than a 110, but in later years, the 1000′s and 1100′s had exactly the same weight ratings.
In 1963, all model designations were multiplied by 10 to get the models 1000 through 1500. In 1971, the 10 was added giving models 1010
through 1510. Initially it was 1010A, but the A was soon dropped.
Finally, in 1974, the model designations changed to 100 for the 1/2 Ton, 200 for the 3/4 Ton, which could be optioned up to the 1 Ton
rating so there was no 300, and 500 for the “1 1/2 Ton” which really had a GVW of 13,000 to 15000# –much above 1 1/2 tons. (The 140 series
had disappeared in the early 1960′s.)

The Scout:
Model 80, 1960-1964
Model 800, 1965-1969
Model 800A, 1969-1970
Model 800B, 1971
Scout II, 1971-1980

1949 to 1964	1965 to 1970	1970 to 1980	1980 – On
NUMERIC		ALPHA NUMERIC	EUROMETRIC	P-METRIC	EUROMETRIC or P-METRIC
“90″ to “80″-Series		78 to 50-Series	“82″-Series	80-, 75-series	70-series	65-series	60-series	50-series
?	?	?	145R10	?	165/70R10	?	?	?
?	?	?	145R12	P145/80R12	165/70R12	?	?	?
?	6.00-12	?	155R12	P155/80R12	?	?	?	?
?	?	?	?	?	?	165/65R13	?	?
?	?	?	145R13	?	?	?	?	?
?	?	?	155R13	P155/80R13	175/70R13	?	195/60R13	215/50R13
5.60-13	6.00-13	A	165R13	P165/80R13	185/70R13	?	205/60R13	?
?	6.50-13	B	175R13	P175/80R13	?	?	?	?
?	?	C	?	P185/80R13	?	?	?	?
?	7.00-13	D	185R13	?	?	?	?	?
?	?	?	195R13	?	?	?	?	?
?	?	?	?	?	?	175/65R14	?	?
6.00-14	6.45-14	?	155R14	?	175/70R14	185/65R14	?	?
?	?	B	165R14	P175/75R14	185/70R14	195/65R14	205/60R14	?
6.50-14	6.95-14	C	175R14	P185/75R14	195/70R14	?	215/60R14	?
?	?	D	?	?	?	?	?	?
7.00-14	7.35-14	E	185R14	P195/75R14	205/70R14	?	225/60R14	245/50R14
7.50-14	7.75-14	F	195R14	P205/75R14	215/70R14	?	235/60R14	?
8.00-14	8.25-14	G	205R14	P215/75R14	225/70R14	?	245/60R14	265/50R14
8.50-14	8.55-14	H	215R14	P225/75R14	?	?	?	?
9.00-14	?	J	225R14	?	?	?	?	?
9.50-14	?	L	?	?	?	?	?	?
?	5.60-15	A	155R15	P155/80R15	?	185/65R15	195/60R15	?
6.00-15	?	B	165R15	P165/80R15	185/70R15	195/65R15	205/60R15	225/50R15
6.50-15	6.85-15	C	175R15	?	195/70R15	205/65R15	215/60R15	?
?	?	D	?	?	?	?	?	?
?	7.35-15	E	185R15	P195/75R15	205/70R15	215/65R15	225/60R15	?
6.70-15	7.75-15	F	195R15	P205/75R15	215/70R15	?	235/60R15	?
?	8.15-15	?	?	?	?	?	?	?
7.10-15	?	G	205R15	P215/75R15	225/70R15	235/65R15	245/60R15	265/50R15
?	8.25-15	?	?	?	?	?	?	?
?	8.45-15	?	?	?	?	?	?	?
7.60-15	?	H	215R15	P225/75R15	235/70R15	?	255/60R15	275/50R15
?	8.55-15	?	?	?	?	?	?	?
8.00-15	8.85-15	J	225R15	P225/75R15	235/70R15	?	265/60R15	?
8.20-15	9.00-15	K	?	?	?	?	?	?
?	9.15-15	L	235R15	P235/75R15	255/70R15	?	275/60R15	295/50R15
?	?	N	?	?	?	?	?	305/50R15
? Listing in chart does not imply complete interchangeability.			?	? When changing tire sizes, dimensional clearances must be checked.

International Spring Bushing Replacement by Dan Nees, Dennis Petterson and Ray Cass A big problem with Scouts in particular, and Internationals in general, is their spring bushings deteriorate. When this happens the trucks really wander and steering becomes very erratic.The way to fix this, is to replace the rubber with Polyurethane bushings. There are a couple of different styles and brands of bushings. The two main brands are, Energy Suspention, and Prothane. Another brand makes a re-greasable bushing for the shackle end of the truck as well, but; their name eludes me. Either brands work fine, and the greasable ones, while I haven”t used them, sound intriguing. You can purchase these items from any Light Line Dealer, such as Super Scout Specialist and the greasable shackle bushings can be bought. The tools required are rather basic for the simple mechanic. More advanced tools make for an easier job, but are not required. Basic Tools: Hacksaw Hammer Chisel Electric Drill with alot of small drill bits. 5/8″, 11/16″ and 3/4″ socket and wrenches PB BLaster, or similar penetrating fluid Jack and Jack Stands Jug Wrench Advanced Tools Sawszall Impact Chisel Impact Gun Oxy-Acetylene Torch or Propane Step 1. Jack up one end of vehicle and support securely with jack stands. Remove the wheels. Step 2. Unbolt the Sway Bar if you are doing the front axle. This requires 2 3/4″ wrenches and alot of strength as these bolts are usually tight. Step 3. Unbolt one side of the axle, shackle and frame side bushings, using the 5/8 and 11/16 wrenches and lots of PBLaster. You may find that some of the bolts will be frozen to the inner sleeve of the bushings. If this happens on the frame side bushing it will require torching, or cutting to get the eye out of the frame box. If it is on the axle side you can always get at least one shackle side off so you can work on the bushing. Step 4. Using an electric drill and a small drill bit, like 1/8″ – 1/4″, and drill the rubber out around the inner sleave. Alternately, with a propane torch burn the rubber out, or with an oxy-acetylen torch burn the inner sleave out. (WARNING) If you use propane or a torch, be sure you do not have any fuel leaks, or are near a fuel line. (WARNING) If you use an oxy-act, the inner sleave can get so hot that the rubber can “SHOOT” the sleave out of the eye. Do not sit facing the eye. With the rubber cut, or burned out, you can now push the inner sleave out of the eye. After letting the rubber cool a little, push that out as well. Step 5. Now, take a hacksaw and thread the blade through the eye. Make 2 cuts about a 1/4″ apart. You do not need to cut all the way through the outer sleave, but you should remove enough material that the sleave will tear out. If you have a sawzall you can use that to cut the outer sleeve. Using a small cold chisel, use the chisel to roll the small cut piece’s edge up and follow it all the way into the eye. With that piece cut out the rest of the sleave will collape in and can be pushed out. Step 6. When installing the new bushings, apply the silicon grease supplied liberally to the outside, inside, and inside the steel sleave of the bushings. If you really want to do it right buy K2 silicon grease from NAPA and really slop the bushings up and install them in the now empty eye. Step 7. When replacing the spring you MUST replace the old bolts with new Grade 8 bolts. You can go to a hardware store and buy 12 7/16″ bolts, or you could buy an entire bolt kit, including new shock bolts, from East Coast Scout Parts for $32 plus shipping. This kit contains the 12 Grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers and are zinc plated. It is also cheaper than buying individual bolts from a hardware store. Step 8. When tightening the bolts upon re-installation, do not tighten more than 20 or so ft-lbs. The rubber bushings that were stock called for a high torque factor, like 60 ft-lbs, the urethane will not flex properly with a high torque value. Hand tight is sufficient. You will have to wait till both sides of the front axle are done to re-install the front sway bar. Step 9. Re-install the wheels and move on to the next axle. Another way to do this job would be to remove the entire spring out from under the axle by removing the u-bolt. This would allow you to work on the spring out in the open. However, if you remove the u-bolts you MUST replace them with new bolts. The 3 corners are 3″ diameter 1/2″ thread u-bolts with the passenger side front corner being 3 1/2″ diameter 1/2″ u-bolts. These will have to be custom made as you cannot buy them this size in the store. Call your local spring shop and ask of they can make you u-bolts. What you want is a 3 1/2″ diameter bent on a 18″ over all length, end to end, rod. No matter how tempting it may be to re-use the old u-bolt DO NOT. They are vital for holding your truck together and the price of buying new bolts, about $60 for all 4 springs, is cheap insurance.

Max Torque (foot-pounds) for clean, dry threads

Bolt size – Thread pitch	Grade 2	Grade5	Grade 8	Special Alloy
1/4-20	6	10	12	14
1/4-28	7	12	15	17
5/16-18	13	20	24	29
5/16-24	14	22	27	35
3/8-16	23	36	44	58
3/8-24	26	40	48	69
7/16-14	37	52	63	98
7/16-20	41	57	70	110
1/2-13	57	80	98	145
1/2-20	64	90	110	160
9/16-12	82	120	145	200
9/16-18	91	135	165	220
5/8-11	111	165	210	280
5/8-18	128	200	245	310
3/4-10	200	285	335	490
3/4-16	223	315	370	530
7/8-9	315	430	500	760
7/8-14	340	470	550	800
1-8	400	650	760	1130
1-14	460	710	835	1210

Torque specs for GRD 214
1/3/02 7:00:42 AM PST From: alfg@sk.sympatico.ca (Ralph Goff)
I have a Chiltons Scout manual and they give a general guide for torque values for the various different sizes and grades of bolts and studs. Now I am assuming the KB has 3/8 studs in the manifold like my S has. The Scout guide recommends 18 to 20 foot pounds for grade 1 or 2 studs. For the higher grade 5 studs they recommend 31 to 35 pounds. If by chance you have grade 6 or 7 studs then the torque settings are 34 ft. lbs. These settings are for clean dry threads. If oil is used on the threads they advise to reduce the settings by 10%. Ralph in Sask.